University  of  California  •  Berkeley 


A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

ANDV 

LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA: 

EMBRACING 

A  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE 

OVERLAND  ROUTED 

Its  Natural  Curiosities^ 

UVERS,  LAKES,  SPRINGS,  MOUNTAINS,  INDIAN 
TRIBES,  fcc.  &c.  ; 

OF  CALIFORNIA: 

Its  Climate,   Soil,  Productions, 
Animals,  &c., 


O/*  Indian,   Mexican  and  Calif  orn  inn 
Character  : 


A  GUIDE  OF  THE  ROUTE 

.OH  TflE  MISSOURI  RIVER  TO  THE  PACIFIC  OCE.IN 


BY  CiEO.  KELLER, 

rilYSlCIAN  TO  THE  WAYNE  COUNTY  COMPANY- 


"CONTEXTS,"  see  last  pages  of  volume. 


[COPY-RIGHT  SECURED.] 


WHITE'S  PRESS — MASKIT.LON,  1851. 


Names  and  Residence 

OF    EACH   MEMBER   OF   THE 

WAYNE  COUNTY  COMPANY. 

(TAKEN  ON  BOARD  THE  STEAMBOAT  "CONSIGNEE.") 


Luther  M.  Dennisoo, 
"Daniel  C.  Loyd,        do.    Ohio. 
Frederick  Kouk,          do. 
William  Duck,  Dalton,  O. 
uenry  Duch,          do. 
John  Morrow,       do. 
Cyrus  Youcum,  Plain  t'p.  Wa'm 
co.  Ohio. 

Benj.  Eason,  do. 
Darid  Soliday,  do. 
Henry  Soliday,  do. 
*  Alexander  Eason.do. 
Joshua  Eberhart,  do. 
Eli  Jones,  do. 

Wm.  Allenbaugh,  do. 
John  Kimmell,  Canaan,       do. 
Lewis  Barritt,       do.  do. 

Ba'tzer  Houck,     do.  do. 

Henry  Mowry,  E.  Union,  do. 
Nathaniel  Ames,    do.         do. 
John  Keffer,  Wooster,  do.  do. 
David  Bower,  Chester  do.  do. 
G.  R.  M'InUre,Franklindo.  do. 
B.  Mutersbaugh,  Plain  do.  do. 
II.  Drabenstadt,  Green  do.  do. 
SanVl.  Hanson,  WOoster  do.  do. 
Henry  Ammerman,  do.        do. 
Jared  Campbell,      do.          do. 
Joseph  Jackson,      do.         do. 
*Lewis  Gibson,       do.         do. 
Wesley  P.  Yordy,  do.         do. 
J.  Mendenhall,  Lakeport,  la. 
f  John  Huffstodr,   Wooster,  O. 
*Thos.  Smith,  do.      do. 


fCharles  Miller,         do.      do. 
fMatthew  M'Clure,  do.      do. 
•(•Jonathan  M'Clure,   do.      do. 
JA.Thornton,Milton,  W'yneco. 
f  James  Jackson,  do.       do. 
*Davitl  Peffer,  Wooster,  Ohio. 
*John  Mahaffie,      do.  do. 

John  France,          do.          do. 
George  Fleck,       do.          do. 
Jesse  Weirick,   Dalton,  Wayne 
Alex.  Clark,          do.      co.  O. 
Samuel  Thomas,  do.         do. 
Pranklin  Thomas,  do.         do. 
*John  Bell,  do.         do. 

Ch«s.  N.  Lamison,  do.  do. 
Isaac  Bailey,  do.  do. 

James  Elder,  do.       do. 

Henry  Wertz,  do.  do. 
Franklin  Myer,  do.  do. 
Mark  Elder,  do.  do. 

{Joseph  Sturgiss,  do.  do. 
Jacob  Updegraff,  do.  do. 
[srael  Human,  do.  do. 
Martin  Hoover,  do.  do. 
Daniel  Hoover,  do.  do. 
Joseph  Hoover,  do.  do. 
Thomas  Marshall,  do.  do. 
Edward  Brings,  do.  do. 
Levi  Scott,  do.  do. 

John  Keller,  do.       do. 

Joseph  Harper,  do.  do. 
Elijah  M'Dowell,  do,  do. 
John  Cully,  do.  do. 

Peter  Cully,  do.       do.' 


NAMES  AND  RESIDENCE. 


Henry  Oberlin,  Dalton,  Wayne 
Samuel  M'Clelland,do.  co.    O. 
W.  F.  E.  Clark,      do.       do. 
Hoyd  Clark,  do.       do. 

Wm.  H.  Smith,      do.       &>. 
David  Gearhart,       do.       do. 
Dr.  Geo.  Keller,      dofc      do. 
Benj.   Wilcox,        do.,      do-. 
Jas.  M.  Vaughn,Wooter  t*p,  O. 
John  Pearson,  Dalton,  W'ne  co. 
•Thos.  M'Clellamk  Sugar  cr.  t. 
Thos.  Latimer    do.VV'ne  co.O. 
fChristian  Fuek,      do.         do. 
Andrew  Murray,  Dalton,  Ohio. 
R.  R.  Galley,         do,         do. 
J.  Gailey,  do.         do. 

S.  Coe,  Baughman  tp.  W,  eo.O. 
Isaiah  Bates,  Dalton,  do.     do. 
Jos.  Weirick,  Wooster  tp. 
fDr.  D.  Weaver,  do.  vil'ge. 
fQuimby  Jones,     do  tp. 
-Joseph  R.  Jones,  do.  do. 
Peter  Garlock,  Edinburgh  do. 
Samuel  Motter,     do.        do. 
James  Brown,        do.         do. 
Edwin  E.  Gorgas  do.         do. 
John  Elder,  do.         do. 

John  Reasor,  do.  do. 
James  Atkinson,  do.  do. 
R.  K.  Deverny,  do*  do. 
f  Jacob  Stiver,  Wayne  tp.  do. 
fJacob  Paulis,  do.  do. 

fNicholas  Paulis,  do.  do. 
f  Benj.  Lehman,  do..  do. 
Geo.  Sonedecker,  do.  do. 
A.  Sonedecker,  do.  do. 
Philip  Proutman,  do.  do. 
William  Yost,,  do.  do. 
Jacob  Oswald,  do*  do. 
Simon  Ihrig,  do.  do. 
George  Wolf,  do.  do. 
Jesse  Beighley,  Milton  tp.  do. 
*DavidKimberlin,Green  do  do. 
Mrs.D.Kimberlin,  do.  do. 
John  Long,  do.  do. 

Hugh  M'Davitt,     do.      do. 
James  Hoy,  S'rcreektp.  do. 


Wm.  M'Connell,  Massillon,  O; 
Samuel  Marsh,          do.      <Jo. 
Gabriel  Messer&mith,CMDoveH> 
David  Gochenour,  E.  Union,  do. 
E.H.Webb,        Salem,     Ohio. 
S.  R.  Middleton,     do.         do. 
David  Karnes,  Canaan  tp.W'yne 
'Albert  Hosington,  do.     co.  O. 
John  Robinson,       do.        do. 
Martin  Mathis,      do.        dow 
Joseph  Karnes,       do.        do. 
Abram  Smith,         do.        do. 
Philip  Swartz,        do.        do> 
Edwin  H.  Miles,  Guilford,  Me- 
dina co.  O. 
John  Coble,.    Lake  tp.  Ashland 

co.  O. 

Elijah  Runyan,  do.  do. 

Wm.  Doolittle,  do.  do. 

John  Stover,       do.  do. 

Simon  Stewart,  do.  do. 

Mich'i  Stewart,  do.  do. 

James  Stewart,  Washington  tp,. 
H?olnies  co.  CK 
J.  W.Everstine,  Loudonville,Ov 
Cornelius  Dill,         do.         do. 
Peter  Lumbert,         do         do. 
J.  Miller.  do.         do. 

Lemuel  Miller,         do.         do.. 
Jacob  Likes,  do.         do., 

Abram  Likes,          do.         do* 
Jacob  Emeric,          do.         do», 
Thos.  Peterson,     Morrow  tp. 
Holmes  co.  O. 
Stutley  Whitford,  Wayne  co.O* 
Sam'l.  Gharlton,  Ashland  co.  O. 
John  Springer,       do.         do. 
Wm.  Rice,  Medina  co.  O. 
George  Miller,  Ashland  co.  Oi. 
Philip  Wolf,.  Wayne  co.      do. 
fDavid  Rhodes,   Stark  co.  do. 
fJohn  Miller,        do.  do. 

(•John  Wagoner,  Summit  co.  do 
JJos.  Callback,        do.         GO. 
f  Peter  Marsh,          do.         do. 
f  John  Alban,     Canal  Fulton,O. 
fA.  Wolfbarger,      do.         dp. 


NAMES  AND  RESIDENCE.  v 

f  Franklin  Babb,  Summit  co.  do.  f  Geo.  Brown,       do.  do. 

*Wm,H.Paramor,  Mansfield  do  \R.  M.  Porter,       do.  do. 

Geo.  L.  Jacobs,         do.         do.  f  Robert  Cooper,    do.  do. 

Jacob  Miller,  do.         do.  f  S.  L.  Combs,     Kittariing,  do. 

Samuel  Dillon,  do.  do.  fJ.  Bradlev,  F'orence,  do. 
Daniel  Dice,  do.  do.  fJ.  S.  Lamb,  Burgettstown,do. 

Jas.  M'Quade,  jr.  do.  do.  fR.  B.  Mursor,  Florence,  do. 
Thos.  Paramour,  do.  do.  fS.  Hamlin,  Harmari's  creek,do 
Thomas  Barnd,  do.  do.  fR.  Bidclle,  Burgettstown,  do. 
fD.  L.  Harris,  Summit  co,  O.  fR.  Kennedy,  do.  do. 
fP.  W.  Reader,  Wayne  co*  do.  f  A.  Wilson,  do.  do. 

fSamuel  Stover,  Surn'it  co.  do.  fT.  F.  Fowle,  Armstrong  co.do 


fAdam  Ruff,           Fulton,     do.  f  Jacob  Milliron,           do.     do. 

fJacob  Weysogle,     do.        do.  fWm.  Guthrie,            do.     do. 

fThomas  Thorpe,      do.         do. 

fS.B.  Fowle,              do.     do. 

JFrank  Lauderdale,  Holmes,  do. 

fH.  Miller,                  do.     do. 

Geo.  Lauderdale,     do.   eo.  do. 

fC.  F.  Fowle,             do.     do. 

Thos.  Gorsuch,  Wayne  eo.  do. 

fB.  Rodgers,                do.     do. 

L.  Whitside,           do.         do.  JfThos.  Farrow,  Pittsbur^h.do. 

•fGeo.  Rudy,    Greenville,    do. 

f-John  Gumbert,       do.         do. 

fS.  Rudy,              do.          do. 

\Wm.  Henry,          do.          do. 

fSam'l.  Clendenney,  do.      do. 

[•Henry  Gumbert,    do.         do. 

John  Leish,  Haysville,  Ashland 

fGeo.  Gumbert,      do.         do. 

eo.  O. 

fB.  Rook,                 do.         do. 

A.  Shroder,       New  Lisbon,  O. 

tSaml.  Fleming,     do.         do. 

Charles  Nininger,                do. 

|Wm.  Smith,           do.         do. 

*Wm.  M'Curdy,  Canton,    do. 

tRobert  Gregg,       do.         do. 

*L.  Barral,               do.         do. 

fRobert  Orton,         do.         do. 

J.  Dunbar,                do.         do. 

fHector  Orton>        do.         do. 

Geo.  Rhedben,        do.         do. 

fFrank  Robinson,     do.         do. 

Jeremiah  Gilford,    do.         do. 

fWm.  Griffith,         do.         do. 

Geo.  J.  Bettinger,  do.        do. 

fJosiah  Boucher,  Ligonier,  do. 

Wm.  Lessig,  Daftou,  We  e.  do. 

flsaac  F.  Boucher,  do.         do. 

D.  Fletcher,      do.            do. 

fDavid  Boucher,      do.        do. 

*M.  Barclay,      do.            do. 

tJohn  George,         do.         do. 

J.  Fletcher,        do.            do. 

Geo.  Aurentz,  Blairsvilie,  do. 

*S.  D.  Kauffman,   Canton,  O. 

Peter  Uurentz,        do.         do. 

«E.  M.  Meffert,       do.        do. 

Sam'l.C.Moorhead,do.         do. 

*Henry  Kauffman,  do.         do. 

Joseph  Aurentz,  Pitteburg,  do. 

*George  Stuck,       do.         do. 

fMie*J.  Lipe,  Somerset  co.  do. 

NMD  M'Millen,  Mansfield,  O. 

fPeter  Lipe,            do.         do. 

John  Dennison,            do.     do. 

fS.  Naugle,  Laughlintown,do. 

Wm.  R.  Hendricks,     do.     do. 

fJesse  GnfRith,  Somerset  co.do 

S'l.  Allenbaugh,  Plain  tp.  W'ne 

fDavid  Griffiith,       do.         do. 

eo.  O. 

fChristian  Staun1;  do.          do. 

iJ.  P.^Murphy,  Feeeport,  Arm- 

fGeo.  Couster,  Stoystown,  do. 

etrong  co.  Pa. 

fJon.  Smith,           do.        do. 

NAMES  AND  RESIDENCE. 


Holmes  co.  O.  M.  Troyer, 
do.         do. 
do.         do. 


ftamuel  Shire, 

George  Lee, 

Reuben  Spang] er, 

John  Kinnard,.  Wooster,       do. 

Slemon  Lisle,  Holmes  co.    O. 

P.  C.  Chesrown,      do.         do. 

J.  Marvin,  do.        do. 


do.         do,. 

Isaac  Moon,  do.         do, 

ll.F.  Cahili,  Findiay,         do- 
John  M'Cleliand,  Dalfon,  Ohio,, 
joined  the  company  at  St.  Jo- 
seph. 


*  Dead. 

f  Went  in  another  Company  from  St.  Joseph, 
t  Left  sick, at  St.  Laramie,  from  thence  returned  to 


A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE   PLAINS;, 

And  Life  in  California,  &c 
CHAPTER  I; 

"Keturned  Californiaii"— "making  a  start    for  the 
a."    ISig  Blue.    H.iitle  Blue,  and  1'lattu  Valley. 

DURING  the  early  part  of  the  year  1850,  Mr.  M.  L.  Den- 
nison,  a  "returned  Californian,"  visited  our  place,  (Dai- 
ton,  Wayne  county,  Ohio,)  and  gave  such  a  glowing  des- 
cription of  the  "El  Dorado,7"  that  considerable  numbers 
from  this  and  adjoining  counties,  began  at  once  to  make 
preparations,  in  order  to  reach  the  "Diggins"  by  the  A4O- 
verland  Route." 

As  Mr.  Dennison  was  about  returning  to  California,  we 
concluded  to  place  ourselves  under  his  guidance,  supposing 
of  course,  that  he  was  well  acquainted  with  the  route,  and 
necessary  outfit.  Getting  together  our  wagons,  harness, 
clothing,  &c.,  we  took  passage  on  board  the  Steamer 
*  'Consignee, "  bound  far  St  Joseph,  Mo.,  designing  to  leave 
(he  frontier  at  that  point.  We  arrived  at  this  place  March 
31st,  Though  raining  violently,  we  at  once  began  getting 
our  wagons  and  buggies  ashore,*  and  selecting  a  camping 
place.  We  spent  the  ensuing  week  in  buying  stock,  pro- 
visions, cooking  utensils,  and  getting  all  things  ready,  be- 
fore starting  out,  on  a  long,  tedious,  and,  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent, dangerous  journey.  Horses  were  worth  from  fifty  to 
one  hundred  dollars,  and  mules  from  seventy-five  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty. 

The  outfit  among  the  messes,  generally,  was  four  mules 
or  horses,  and  one  wagon,  to  every  four  men.  By  the  ad- 
vice of  our  guide  we  took  but  fifty  pounds  of  flour,  and  for- 


8  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

ty  of  hard  bread,  to  each  man;  an  amount  we  found  whol- 
ly insufficient,  as  partial  starvation,  during  the  latter  parl 
of  tho  route,  satisfactorily  demonstrated.  Our  other  arti- 
cles of  provision  were  in  about  the  same  proportion, 

On  the  7th,  8th  and  £th  of  April,  the  different  messes 
crossed  the  Missouri  river,  and  encamped  near  the  bluff, 
six  miles  from  St.  Joseph's. 

We  found  plenty  of  wood  and  good  water  at  this  point 
A  variety  of  the  paroquet  abounds  in  this  part  of  the  Indian 
territory.  Mr.  Mendenhall  ascended  a  tree  at  this  place, 
in  pursuit  of  a  squirrel,  and,  in  endeavoring  to  capture  it, 
inflicted  a  wonrid  near  his  knee  with  a  hatchet,  which  pre- 
vented him  from  travelling,  ••on  foot,"  for  a  distance  of 
one  thousand  miles. 

On  the  evening  of  the  9*h  Mr.  R.  F.  Cahill,  of  Findlay, 
Ohio,  arrived  at  OUT  camp,  and  engaged  Messrs.  Hoovers, 
of  Dalton,  to  "take  him  through"  to  the  "diggins." 

Next  morning,  about  7  o'clock,  we  broke  up  our  camp, 
and  after  driving  a  few  minutes,  found  ourselves  on  the  al- 
most boundless  prairie.  The  scenery  on  these  vast  natu- 
ral fields,  creates,  for  a  short  time,  an  exhilirating  effect  oa 
the  mind  of  the  traveller  ;  but  the  sameness  of  the  scene- 
soon  becomes  monotonous. 

This  evening  we  encamped  about  two  miles  west  of  the 
"Indian  Agency."  As  grass  had  not  yet  begun  growing 
en  the  prairie,  we  were  compelled  to  carry  food  for  the 
mules  and  horses*  Several  of  our  messes  bought  corn  at 
this  place,  paying  one  dollar  per  bushel. 

We  travelled  this  day  about  27  miles.  As  many  of  the 
mules  had  never  been  harnessed  before,  of  course  some 
trouble  might  be  expected  in  getting  them  to  work  well, — 
but  I  believe  we  had  no.  «*bawks,"  or  runaways,  during  the 
day. 

On  Sunday  afternoon  (April  14th)  we  crossed  the  Big 
Blue,  distant  from  St.  Joseph  about  125  miles,  This  stream 
is  about  120  feet  wide,  and  at  this  time  about  three  feet 
deep.  We  forded  it  without  any  difficulty.  Later  in  the 
season,  during  the  heavy  rains,  this  stream,  is  swollen  ve- 
ry much,  and  may  detain  a  company  several  days,  either 
in  waiting  for  it  "to  fall,"  or  in  ferrying  it.  The  weath- 
er, during  the  afternoon,  was  warm  and  pleasant ;  but  the 
days  preceding  it,  had  been  unusually  cold,  snowing  fie- 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  9 

quently,  with  a  cold  wind  from  the  north.  In  this  distance 
we  had  no  wood,  except  in  the  vicinity  of  streams.  Next 
evening  about  sunset,  we  crossed  Little  Blue,  and  travelled 
near  it  the  two  successive  days;,  the  weather,  during  ihis 
time,  cold  and  rainy. 

Friday  evening  (19th)  we  struck  the  valley  of  Platte,  or 
Nebraska  river,  and  encamped  near  some  pools  of  stagnant 
water,  about  three  miles  from  the  river.  Not  having  any 
fuel  here  but  prairie  grass,  and  it  wet  by  the  rains,  we  con- 
cluded to  dispense  with  the  ceremony  of  getting  supper,, 
and  therefore  went  to  bed  minus  this  tneak 


CHAPTER  IL 

Fort  Kearney-  "Doby  House*,"—  Buffalo,    Deer,  «fcc.,—  Fbr«5 
•f  South  Platte—  Encampment  of  .Sioux—  Fine  Arl»—  S 


Next  morning  about  sunrise*  we  started  forward,  intend- 
ing to  breakfast  at  Fart  Kearney,  distant  about  ten  miles*. 
Reaching  this  place  about  ten  o'clock,  we  concluded  to  stop 
for  an  hour  or  two,  during  wbich  time  some  breakfast  wa& 
"got  up,"  and  flour  purchased  to-  feed  the  stock,  many  of 
them  being  nearly  worn  out  by  hard  driving,  and  an  insuf- 
ficient amount  of  food.  Spring  being  unusually  late,  we^ 
as  yet,  found  no  grass,  and  it  became  necessary  to  econo- 
mize the  grain  we  had  with  us  as  much  as  possible.. 

This  military  establishment  is  about  300  miles  from  St. 
Joseph,  and  about  two*  miles  from  Piatte  liver.  h  is  de- 
signed to  afford  supplies  to  emigrants,  and  protect  them 
from  attacks  af  the  different  Indian  tribes.  This  fort  i;- 
situated  in  the  Pawnee  country.  During  the  summer  of 
194&,  they  were  in  the  habit  of  visiting  emigrants,  while 
passing  through  their  country.  As  these  were  suffering 
from  cholera,  the  disease  was  communicated  to  them,  des- 
troying great  numbers.  This  so  frightened  them,  that  they 
kept  at  a  respectful  distance  during  the  next  season. 

Fort  Kearney  is  built,  principally,  of  "adobes,"  (u-n- 
burnt  brick,)  usually  called  "doby"  houses,  for  short.  The 
great  scarcity  of  timber,  renders  an  expedient  of  this  kind 
necessary.  About  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  left  the  fort, 
and  travelling  about  eight  miles,  encamped  near  a  pool  of 
stagnant  water*  about  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  river*. 


10  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

We  used  ihe  dried  stalks  of  the  Lobelia  Inflata,  an  fuel 
at  this  place.  There  is  scarcely  any  timber,  growing  on 
or  near  the  banks  of  the  Platte,  except  a  few  cotton  and 
willow  trees,  and  very  often  none  even  of  these.  The 
breadih  of  the  river  valley,  varies  from  three  to  six  or  8 
miles.  From  this  point  to  the  ford  of  the  South  Fork  of 
Platte,  a  distance  of  160  miles,  we  travelled  up  the  river 
valley,  suffering  considerably  from  cold  and  wet  weather, 
having  no  fuel  but  dry  prairie  grass,  and  the  **Bois  de  Va- 
che,"  or  Buffalo  chips,  (the  excrement  of  the  Buffalo,  dri- 
ed by  years  of  exposure  to  the  sunj  These  chips  make 
a  very  good  fire,  when  you  have  nothing  better.  While 
travelling  over  this  part  of  the  route,  we  passed  hundred* 
of  herds  of  this  animal.  The  flesh  of  the  calves  and  cows  is 
very  good,  but  that  of  the  elderly  males  is  rather  tough  — 
There  are  also  plenty  of  Antelopes,  Bears,  Wolves,  Hares, 
Prairie  Dogs,  (a  small  animal  resembling  the  Squirrel,) 
Wild  Geese  &  Ducks,  Snipes  and  Prairie  Chickens.  Sev- 
eral species  of  good  Pushes  are  frequently  found  in  the 
streams. 

The  rattle-snake,  prairie  dog  and  burrowing  owl,  are 
frequently  found  living  together,  amicably,  in  the  same 
burrow.  Natural  history  does  not,  probably,  afford  an  ex- 
ample of  animals  so  dissimilar  in  form  and  habits,  occupy- 
ing the  same  berth. 

We  reached  the  ford  of  South  Platte  on  the  26th  of  A- 
pril,  the  weather  during  the  whole  day  very  cold  and  snow- 
ing violently.  The  river  at  this  point  is  about  one  half 
mile  in  width,  but  very  shallow,  the  greatest  depth  not  be- 
ing more  than  two  feet.  Later  in  the  season,  during  the 
June  rains,  it  is  much  deeper.  The  bed  of  this  stream  is 
very  sandy,  so  much  so,  that  if  a  wagon  "sticks"  fora  few 
minutes,  it  becomes  a  difficult  matter  to  get  it  out  from  the 
accumulations  of  sand. 

On  arriving  at  the  opposite  shore,  a  very  inhospitable 
scene  presented  itself — large  flakes  of  snow  flying  across 
the  barren-  plain  and  bluffs,  and  not  a  vestige  of  any  thing 
resembling  fuel,  except  the  Buffalo  chips,  which  were  i>o 
wetted  by  the  melting  snow  as  not  to  be  in  very  good  burn- 
ing ORDER.  A  gallon  or  two  of  *'cognac,"  when  applied 
internally,  had  the  effect  of  lulling  the  sensibilities  of  a 
number  of  the  company,  and  bringing  on  a  state  of  happy 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  11 

Jorgetfvlness.     But  those  who  drank  none  felt  much  better 
next  morning. 

This  example  would  go  far,  towards  establishing  the  po- 
sition, that  water  is  calculated  to  answer  in  all  kinds  of 
weather. 

We  had  been  compelled  to  leave  a  number  of  mules  and 
horses  before  this  time,  on  account  of  scarcity  of  grass  and 
grain,  and  several  more  were  added  to  the  number,  by  the 
fatigue  and  exposure  endured  in  crossing  this  stream. 

Next  day  we  travelled  to  Cash  Hollow,  on  the  North 
Fork  of  Platte,  distant  14  miles.  There  are  several  long, 
steep  hills  to  descend  in  tins  distance.  Before  reaching 
the  Hollow  we  met  a  train  of  wagons,  belonging  to  the  A- 
merican  Fur  Company,  loaded  with  furs  and  skins.  On 
arriving  at  this  camping  place,  we  found  plenty  of  wood 
and  wBter;  the  weather  was  also  warm  and  pleasant. 

Between  the  States  and  this  point,  the  road  is  generally 
very  good,  equal  to  any  road  of  the  same  length  in  the 
*4States." 

Not  supposing  we  would  be  troubled  by  the  Indians,  a 
number  of  guns  were  broken  and  thrown  away  at  this 
place,  our  object  being  to  lighten  the  loads  as  much  as  pos- 
sible. After  leaving  the  Hollow  we  struck  the  bank  of 
North  Platte,  a  stream  entirely  different  from  the  South 
Fork,  and  the  main  Platte,  after  the  junction  of  the  two 
forks.  The  latter  are  wide  and  shallow,  while  the  former 
is  narrow  and  of  considerable  depth.  About  ten  miles  tra- 
vel brought  us  to  an  encampment  of  Sioux  Indians.  In 
these  ten  miles  we  had  considerable  heavy  sand  road. 

These  Indians  received  us  very  kindly,  and  exhibited 
their  certificates  of  "moral  character,"  and  friendship  tow- 
ards emigrants.  We,  in  turn,  gave  them  some  email  pre- 
sents. This  tribe  have  at  present  about  fifteen  hundred 
lodges,  each  one  large  enough  to  contain  five  persons  with 
their  baggage.  These  lodges  are  got  up  in  the  following 
manner.  About  eight  poles,  about  fifteen  or  twenty  feet 
long,  are  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  cone;  one  extremity  of 
the  poles  being  placed  around  the  circumference  of  the  cir- 
cle, while  the  other  extremity  forms  the  apex  of  the  cone. 
A  number  of  Buffalo  robes  dressed  on  both  sides  are  sewed 
together,  and  fitted  accurately  to  this  frame  work.  An  o- 
pening  is  left  at  the  top  to  give  exit  to  the  smoke.  This  is 


12  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

furnished  with  a  valve,  which  may  be  made  to  cover  tho 
chimney  during  rain  or  snow.  Internally  the  following  ar- 
rangement is  observed  :  the  fire  is  placed  in  the  centre, 
and  ths  baggage  around  the  circumference  of  the  circle, 
while  the  family  occupy  the  intermediate  space. 

These  Indians,  as  well  as  the  tribes  generally  east  of 
the  Rocky  mountains,  are  considerably  skilled  in  i\\Q  fine 
arts,  making  very  beautiful  moccasins  and  other  articles  of 
wearing  apparel.  The  Buffalo  robe  is  tanned  very  nice- 
ly, being  white,  and  almost  as  soft  as  buff  cassimere.— 
Their  arms  are  spears  and  bows  and  arrows.  A  few  have 
rifles.  The  Sioux  and  Pawnees  are  almost  constantly  at 
war  with  each  other.  We  noticed  at  this  encampment,  a 
French  gentleman,  who  informed  us  that  he  had  been  with 
the  tribe  thirty-two  years. 

Novelists  frequently  tell  us  of  beautiful  Indian  maidens, 
but  among  the  different  tribes  on  the  northern  route  to  Ca- 
lifornia, a  pretty  squaw  is  arara  avis-^sQ  rare,  indeed,  that 
1  have  never  seen  a  single  specimen. 

They  are  "heavy  set,"  and  not  tall  enough,  with  broad 
faces  and  prominent  cheek  bones.  They  also,  as  a  gene- 
ral thing,  use  too  much  paint,  which  differs  too  much  from 
carmine  to  aid  any  in  improving  their  complexion.  They 
are,  generally,  very  faithful  wives,  whether  their'husbands 
be  Indians  or  whites.  Nearly  all  the  hunters  and  trappers 
in  the  Indian  country,  have  one  or  two  wives,  selected  from 
the  nearest  tribe.  The  squaws  do  all  the  "hard  work," 
while  their  "lords"  are  busied  in  taking  care  of  themselves, 
doing  a  little  hunting,  fishing,  or  fighting,  when  it  suits 
their  convenience. 


CHAPTER  III, 

Indian  mode  of  travelling— Court  House  or  Church— Chini* 
racy  Hock— Scott's  ISlufi*  -.Rlaeksmith  Shop  and  Horse  Creek. 

After  leaving  these  Indians,  we  traveled  about  nino 
miles  and  encamped.  Heavy  sand  road.  During  the  next 
day  wo  met  considerable  numbers  of  Sioux  travelling  to- 
ward sorae  other  encampment.  Each  family  has  one  or 
more  of  a  very  indifferent  kind  of  pony,  which  from  ill  usage 
do  not  make  a  \Qi-yflashy  appearance. 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  13 

When  about  to  travel,  the  husband  takes  his  a 
mounts  his  pony,  and  goes  ahead,  leaving  his  squaw  to 
pack  up  the  baggage  and  bring  up  the  rear.  This  is  ef- 
fected in  the  following  manner.  The  lodge  poles,  ave  lash- 
ed to  the  saddle  of  a  pony  by  one  end,  while  the  other 
drags  on  the  ground.  Pieces  are  placed  across  these  ends 
of  the  polos,  and  upon  them  the  baggage  is  placed.  Very 
often  two  or  three  papooses  are  piled  up  on  the  top  of  the 
load. 

If  it  be  the  only  pony,  it  is,  when  all  things  are  ready, 
-mounted  by  the  squaw  and  the  cavalcade  sets  forward.^— 
If  there  be  a  spare  pony,  she  rides  it  and  leads  the  one 
•carrying  the  baggage,  A  variety  of  large  dogs  kept  by 
these  tribes,  are  also  compelled  to  assist  in  these  migrations. 
Smaller  poles  are  attached  to  them,  and  on  these,  is  placed, 
°vhat  is  considered  by  the  squaws,  a  just  proportion  of  the 
baggage.  This  is  a  duty,  which  the  dogs  dislike  very 
much,  but  the  final  arguments  of  their  mistresses — kicks 
and  cuffs — induce  them  to  submit,  after  they  get  fairly  star- 
ted, those  arguments  with  an  occasional  tzoo,  tzoo,  wahkash- 
ne  ceit  cha  (get  on,  get  on,  you  devilish  beasts)  keep  them 
moving.  If  they  be  not  watched,  two  or  three  of  them 
manage  to  get  up  a  fight,  is  soon  converted  into  a  general 
row,  during  which  they  get  their  loads  off,  which  is  quite 
an  annoyance  to  the  squaws,  who  must  stop  and  repack 
them,  of  course  stopping  the  fight,  first.  These  dogs  are 
also  highly  valued  aa  an  article  of  food.  Dog  is  consider- 
ed far  ahead  of  all  meats,  both  by  Indians  and  trappers. — 
Panthers  is  thought  to  be  next  best,  while  the  meats  we 
'esteem  most  highly,  are  pretty  far  down  in  the  list. 

About  forty-five  miles  further  travelling,  our  heavy 
^and  road  brought  us  to  the  ^Church"  or  ••Court  House" 
Rock.  This  natural  curiosity  is  several  miles  to  the  left 
of  the  road.  It  is  composed  of  a  whitish,  soft  rock,  and. 
as  its  name  imports,  resembles  very  much,  a  large  church 
or  court  house.  Chimney  Rock,  seen  distinctly  from  the 
"church,"  though  twelve  miles  off,  is  also  a  very  striking 
example  of  some  of  Nature's  freaks  The  lower  part  oV 
this  rock  is  shaped  like  a  cone.  The  top  is  surmounted 
by  a  •'chimney"  seventy-five  feet  high,  of  almost  equal  di- 
ameter, through  its  entire  length. 

Height  of  the  whole  rock,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet. — 
Bl 


14  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

This,  with  all  the  other  peculiar  rocks  and  bluffs  of  this 
part  of  the  country,  is  composed  of  rock,  similar  to  that  of 
the  "court  house  or  church.7' 

It  is  nearly  as  soft  as  magnesian  lime  stone;  though 
not  so  white.  Five  miles  farther  there  are  a  number  of  ir- 
regular elevations,  called  Scott's  Bluffs.  They  are  about 
five  hundred  feet  high.  When  the  atmosphere  is  clear  the 
Rocky  mountains  may  be  seen  from  the  summit  of  these 
bluffs.  When  I  made  ihe  ascent  the  air  was  too  hazv  to 
gat  a  view  of  these  distant  mountains.  The  main  chain  is 
about  three  hundred  miles  from  the  "Bluffs." 

The  road  leaves  the  immediate  valley  of  Platte  river, 
and  passes  between  two  of  these  bluffs.  From  this  to  the 
"Blacksmith  Shop,"  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  there  is 
no  water  or  wood,  and  very  little  grass.  Heavy  sand  road 
part  of  this  distance. 

At  the  "Shop"  we  found  plenty  of  red  cedar  timber  and 
g.->od  water.  Our  corn  was  now  nearly  exhausted,  and 
being  not  yet  replaced  by  grass,  we  were  compelled  to  leave 
stock,  almost  daily. 

Thursday  may  2nd.  left  the  "shop, "and  after  travelling 
12  miles  crossed  Horse  creek,  about  thirty  feel  wide  and 
two  feel  deep.  In  the  afternoon  travelled  thirteen  miles, 
and  encamped  on  the  same  stream,  Weather  cold  and 
windy.  Next  day  about  10  o'clock  A.  M.  arrived  at 
Roubidous'.  There  is  a  blacksmith  shop  and  stock 
market  here.  Exorbitant  prices  were  demanded  for  mules 
or'horses.  As  an  illustration,  Mr.  D.  Hoover,  of  Dalton, 
gave  a  pretty  good  horse  and  seventy- five  dollars,  for  a 
rather  indifferent  mule.  After  leaving  this  place  we  travel- 
ed a  few  hours  and  encamped  within  four  miles  of  Ft  Lar- 
imie.  We  had  here  plenty  of  good  wood  and  water,  and  a 
little  grass. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Fort  Lisirimic.-  Warm  Springs— &«a  Boiit  River— IWLagnesiaii 
14i«iestotie—  An  early  start— Fishing  in  I>ecr  creek— Ferry  of 
North  Platte— Mineral  I  a!t<  s. 

Next  morning  (Saturday  May  4th}  we  arrived  at  the 
fort.  Finding  we  were  going  to  be  short  of  provisions, 
before  getting  through,  we  concluded  to  supply  ourselves 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  15 

here,  with  a  sufficient  amount,  but  being  informed  by  the 
commanding  officer,  that  this  would  be  unnecessary,  as 
we  could  get  supplies  at  Ft.  Hall,  we  concluded  to  defer 
the  matter  until  arriving  there.  The  reader  will  be  fully 
apprized  of  the  result  of  this  determination,  before  we  get 
through.  Some  messes  got  flour  and  hard  bread,  but  not 
enough  to  "last  through." 

Mr.  Joseph  Sturgis  of  Dalton,  had  been  suffering  for  , 
days,  from  an  attack  ofacute  rheumatism,  and  as  his  case 
was  not  likely  to  be  much  improved,  by  cold  weather,  and 
the  jostling  of  the  wagon  passing  over  the  cobble-stones 
in  the  road,  I  advised  him  to  remain  here,  until  he  should 
get  well.  This  advice  he  accepted,  and  arrangements 
were  made  before  we  left  for  his  reception  at  the  Fort. 

In  a  few  weeks  he  returned  to  the  States.  Several  sol- 
diers'were  suffering  from  scurvy,  brought  on  by  the  want 
of  fresh  vegetables.  They  were  waiting  for  the  wild  onion 
to  grow,  the  use  of  which,  would  soon  effect  a  cure. 

After  leaving  this  fort  we  travelled  twelve  miles  and  en* 
camped  at  the  Warm  Springs.  The  temperature  of  these 
springs  is  66°  Fahr.  There  are  two  roads  leading  from 
the  springs,  the  left  hand  going  by  "Hebrew  Springs/' the 
right  nearer  the  river  (North  Flatted  We  took  the  latter 
in  order  to  avoid  crossingthe  "Black  Hills,"  which  in  ma- 
ny places  are  very  steep  and  the  road  full  of  cobble-stones. 
Next  day  we  travelled  about  twenty-five  miles,  over  a  very 
hilly,  and  tortuous  road,  and  encamped  on  a  creek  about 
twenty  feet  wide,  and  two  feet  deep.  Good  wood  and  wa- 
ter, and  some  grass  here.  Next  day  (Monday  may  6th) 
we  reached  the  La  Bonto  river,  distance  thirty-five  miles. 
In  the  first  fifteen  miles  we  struck  Platte  River  twice,  in 
the  remaining  we  had  neither  wood  nor  water.  It  snowed 
the  greater  part  of  this  day,  and  the  wind  from  the  snow- 
capped mountains  in  the  vicinity,  was  rather  fresh  to  be 
comfortable. 

The  La  Bonte  is  thirty  feet  wide  and  one  and  a  half  feet 
deep,  with  a  rapid  current.  This  stream  is  so  called,  from 
a  hunter  and  trapper  of  th^sama  namo,  whose  companions 
were  killed,  and  his  wife  Yute-chil-co-the  (the  reed  that 
bends),  carried  away  captive  by  the  Arapahoes.  This 
happened  at  the  forks  of  the  stream,  while  La  Bonte  was 
absent,  on  a  trapping  tour.  His  companions  wore  also 


16  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

trapping,  and  coming  to  the  forks  first  were  to  await  hi» 
arrival.  He  never  recovered  the  "bending  reecL"  The 
next  morning  was  very  cold,  the  thermometer  at  5  OTC.  A.. 
M.  standing  at  28  deg.  Fahr.  Five  miles  from  the  La 
Bonte  we  crossed  a  branch  of  the  same  stream.  In  the  vi- 
cinity of  this  branch  there  aye  large  masses  of  magnesias 
limestone,  and  a  peculiar  earth  of  a  deep  red  color.  Ir> 
the  same  locality,  there  *s  a  natural,  or  artificial  pyramid 
built  up  of'*  boulders"  about  seventy-five  feet  i-a  height. — 
This  pile  of  rocks  looks  very  much,  as  if  man  had  beeras 
the  author;  but  if  not  Dame  Nature  must  have  had  "a 
time  of  it"  in  getting  then*  together.  Travelling  sixteen 
miles  farther  we  encamped  on  the  Ala  PreLe  river.  This 
stream  is  about  as  large  as  the  La  Bonte.  This  is  a  very 
good  camping  place.  We  left  encampment  next  morning 
about  2  o'clock,  in  order  to  reach  the  ''Lower  ford  and 
ferry  of  north  Platte,"  distant  eighteen  miles,  before  another 
company  immediately  behiad  ws.  We  learned  afterwards 
that  this  early  start  was  unnecessary,  as  they  crossed  anoth- 
er ford,  twenty-seven  miles  "higher  up."-  Eight  miles  from* 
encampment  we  crossed  the  Fourche  Bois  river.  Nine 
miles  farther  crossed  Deer  Creek  and  encamped,  as  the- 
ferry  boat  about  being  built,  by  a  gentleman  from  Ft  Lar- 
imie,  was  not  quite  completed.  Some  of  the  company,  as- 
sisted in  finishing  it,  in  order  that  we  might  get  over  nexfc 
day. 

Deer  creek  is  about  thirty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep, 
with,  a  rapid  current.  There  are  some  very  good  fish  in? 
this  stream;  but  "one  in  hand  is  worth  two  in  the  water7  7a& 
we  found  that  they  were  not  easily  caught.  Samuel  Han- 
son, Joseph  Jackson  and  some  others,  converted  a  wagon 
cover  into  a  fish  net;  but  it  was  "no  go;"  the  result  of  the 
fishing  being  a  cold  bath. 

There  is  a  coral  mine  a  short  distance  from  the  mouth 
of  the  creek.. 

Next  morning  Wm.  Palmer  of  Mansfield,  O;  had- an- at- 
tack of  cholera  morbus,  but  was  able  to  resume  his  share 
of  camp  work  in  the  afternoon.  About  noon  we  broke 
up  our  camp,  and  moved  to  the  ferry  about  one  mile  dis-- 
tant,  and  succeeded  in  getting  every  thing  over  safely 
before  night. 

The  North. Platte  at  this  place  is  about  one  hundred  andi 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  17 

twenty  yards  wide,  and  at  this  timo  four  and  a  half  feet 
deep.  We  encamped  afier  crossing,  having  plenty  of 
wood  and  some  glass.  There  are  some  very  beautiful 
volcanic  rocks  in  this  vicinity. 

This  ferry  is  one  hundred  and  thirteen  miles  west  of  Ft 
Larimie. 

Friday  morning,  may  10th  left  this  encampment  and 
after  travelling  twenty-two  miles,  generally  near  the  river, 
encamped  five  miles  below  ••Upper  Platte  Ferry  and  Ford.' 
During  the  afternoon  a  brown  bear  was  killed  by  some  of 
the  company,  not  far  from  the  bank  of  the  river.  Next 
morning  after  travelling  five  miles  we  struck  the  Platte  for 
the  last  lime. 

The  mineral  lake  and  springs  are  seven  miles  farther, 
the  waters  of  which  are  so  highly  impregnated  with  alka- 
line matter,  as  to  be  entirely  unfit  for  use.  After  travel- 
ling about  eighteen  miles  farther,  we  found  a  small  stream 
of  good  water.  There  are  a  number  of  springs  and  creeks 
in  this  distance,  but  all  highly  alkaline.  The  mules  and 
horses  that  were  running  loose,  required  considerable 
watching  in  order  to  prevent  them  injuring  themselves  by 
drinking  this  water.  This  part  of  the  country  is  of  volca- 
nic origin. 

CHAPTER  V. 

Same  subject  continued. — Fording;  river* — Ice  springs— Rate 
and  hull  •form. 

Next  morning  May  12th.  the  thermometer  at  4  1-2 
o'clock  A.  M.  stood  at  26deg.  Fahr.  After  travelling 
two  and  three  fourth  miles,  we  came  to  Willow  Springs. — 
This  is  a  good  camping  place,  there  being  plenty  of  wil- 
lows and  good  water.  Prospect  hill  is  one  mile  farther. — 
The  Sweet  VVater  mountains,  are  distinctly  seen  from  the 
summit  of  this  hill.  Game  is  very  abundant  in  this  part  of 
the  country. 

The  Alkaline  Lakes  are  about  fourteen  miles  from 
"Prospect  Hill."  The  surface  of  the  earth  here,  is  cov- 
ered with  almost  pure  carbonate  of  soda,  varying  from  two 
to  ten  inches  in  thickness.  This  salt  either  for  baking  or 
any  other  use,  is  almost  equal-to  the  commercial  article. — 
Our  fuel  here,  and  for  hundreds  of  miles  farther,  was  the 


18  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

wild  sage  (artimissia.)  This  is  an  aromatic  shrub  differ- 
ing considerably  from  the  common  garden  sage.  The 
stalks  are  found  from  one  fourth  of  an  inch,  to  three  or  four 
inches  in  diameter.  It  does  not  generally  grow  more  than? 
three  or  four  feet  high.  After  growing  a  few  years,  the 
stalks  apparently  break  off  at  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
and  seem  entirely  dead,  while  the  tops  are  in  full  vigor. — 
In  this  condition  it  makes  very  good  fuel. 

A  bird  about  as  large  as  a  chicken  is  found  among  the^ 
"Sage,"  and  is  called  the  Sage  hen. 

Independence  Rock  is  five  miles  from  the  Alkaline 
Lakes.  This  rock  stands  "solitary  and  alone"  in  the  val- 
ley of  Sweet  Water  Riverr  entirely  separated  from  the- 
neighboring  mountains.  It  is  about  five  hundred  feet  long, 
two  hundred  broad,  and  about  two  hundred  and  fiity  in 
height.  It  is  composed  of  granite.  We  left  our  names 
in  tar  upon  this  rock,  as  thousands  had  clone  before  us. — 
We  encamped  on  Sweet  Water  about  half  a  mile  above 
the  rock. 

After  leaving  this  encampment  we  forded  the  river — its- 
breadth  at  this  place  about  sixty  feet,  and  depth  three  ;  and 
five  miles  farther  passed  the  ''Devil's  Gate.7'  This  is  a 
fissure  in  the  rocks  through  which  the  Sweet  Water  forces 
its  way.  At  the  lower  entrance  the  <kgate"  is  nearly 
eighty  rods  in  width,  but  becomes  gradually  narrower  un- 
til the  river  forces  its  way  through  a  fissure  but  a  few  feel 
in  width.  At  this  point  the  walls  are  four  hundred  feet 
in  perpendicular  height.  The  scenery  is  fearfully  grand — 
the  water  roaring  at  your  feet — the  naked  walls  of  rock 
apparently  almost  meeting,  above  you,  while  large  pieces 
seern  ready,  from  the  slightest  cause,  to  be  detached  from; 
the  parent  mass,  and  crush  you  in  their  descent.  After 
leaving  the  "gate"  the  road  runs  near  the  river  for  ten- 
miles,  six  miles  farther  there  is  a  very  muddy  creek  to- 
cross.  Four  miles  farther  the  road  again  strikes  the  river. 
There  are  two  roads  from  this  point,  one  leading  to  the 
left  over  the  bluffs,  while  the  other  runs  nearer  the  stream. 
They  unite  again  in  a  few  miles*  The  latter  road  is  pref- 
erable as  it  is  not  so  sandy.  In  the  afternoon  we  travelled 
seven  miles  and  encamped  at  the  junction  of  the  roads. — 
Wood  and  water  convenient.  Next  morning  we  travel- 
led ten  miles  and  a  half  and  forded  the  river.  In  the  a£- 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  19 

lernoon  we  forded  twice  in  the  distance  of  one  and  a  half 
miles.  Encamped  eight  miles  farther,  near  the  river  bank. 
There  is  another  ford  here.  The  *kiee  springs17  are  six 
miles  farther.  Ice  may  be  obtained  here  almost  any  time 
during  the  summer,  by  digging  down  two  or  three  feet.— - 
There -is  a  very  marshy  peice  of  road  in  this  vicinity. — r 
We  assisted  the  horses  and  mules  through  this  place,  and: 
pulled  the  wagons  through  ourselves,  mud  about  two  feet 
deep.  This  place  may  be  avoided  by  going  to  the  left,  a- 
round  the  source  of  the  springs.  A  large  tram  would  save 
several  hours  hard  work  by  doing  this.  Ten  miles  farther 
we  forded  the  river  again.  In  the  afternoon  we  travelled- 
eight  miles  generally  near  the  river,  fording  it  twice.  We 
encamped  here  near  a  marshy  spring  to  the  right  of  the 
road. 

The  evening  before,  the  mail  carrier  from  Ft.  Hall  met 
us,  and  gave  us  the  pleasing  intelligence,  that  we  could 
get  no  provisions  at  the  fort,  as  the  soldiers-  had  been  on 
half  rations  during  the  winter,  and  had  gone  to  Oregon 
city,  until  supplies  should  be  recieved  from  the  States, — ' 
He  was  travelling  with  soma  mormons  from  Salt  Lake1 
city.  By  them  we  sent  some  letters,  which  were  to  be' 
mailed  in  Missouri- 
Thursday  May  l£th,  travelled  in  the  forenoon  fi fleer? 
miles  to  a  branch  of  Sweet  Water,  crossing  in  the  distance 
several  small  streams.  We  also  passed  a  poplar  grove  a 
short  d:stance  to  the  left  of  the  road.  We  had  some 
trouble  fording  this  branch,  as  there  was  a  bank  of  snow, 
ten  or  fifteen  feet  deep,  on  each  si&e.  We  forded  a  short 
distance  below  where  the  snow  was  not  so  deep.  Wees- 
ercised  ourselves  for  a  while,  carrying  rocks  through  the 
stream,  barefoot,  and  placing  them*  near  the  opposite  bank, 
in  order  to  get  the  wagons  through  more  easily.  Temper- 
ature of  the  water  &2deg.  In  the  afternoon  we  were  de- 
tained several  times  by  snow  banks.  We  travelled  only 
seven  miles,  and  encamped  for  the  last  time  on  Sweet  Wa- 
ter. While  getting  supper  we  were  visited  by  a  rain  and 
hail  storm  which  abruptly  concluded  the  cooking  opera- 
tions. 


20  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS. 

CHAPTER  TI. 

"South  I'n»M,"-«4cparn*io*,-«;re<»n  River,— flam's  Ford .-  A 
Supper.— Snow  I  toad-  Socln  or  Xteev  Springs-  Btcnmboat 

jjprtap* 

Next  morning  we  forded  the  river,  which  was  consid- 
erably swollen  by  rain,  and  melting  of  the  snow.  The 
wagon  belonging  to  the  Canton  Mess,  wasoverturned  in  the 
stream  and  their  provisions  considerably  damaged, 

Nine  miles  travel  over  a  very  good  road  brought  us  to 
the  South  Pass  or  summit  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  This 
is  about  nineteen  miles  in  width,  with  a  very  gradual  as- 
cent. Many  pa*s  over  the  mountains  here,,  without  know- 
ing when  they  are  at  the  summit,  but  the  "twin  mounds,^ 
two  hills  about  sixty  feet  high,  and  si-xty  rods  apart,  will 
point  this  out,  as  they  are  very  near  the  dividing  ridge. — 
The  '-Pass"  is  about  nine  hundred  miles  west  of  St  Joseph. 
Altitude  7490  feetLat.  42°  27"  N.  Lon.  109o  27'  W. 

The  Pacific  Springs  are  three  miles  west  of  the  *-Pass,v 
Pacific  creek  one  mile  farther.  This  is  one  of  the  head 
branches  of  the  Colorado  river,,  which  cnapties  into  the  Gulf 
of  California.  The  Dry  Sandy  is  nine  miles  farther. — 
Junction  of  the  Oregon  and  Salt  Lake  roads,,  six  miles 
farther. 

At  this  point  our  company  was  divided,  a  few  going  by 
Salt  Lake  in  order  to  get  some  provisions.  But  the  ma- 
jority thought  they  could  get  through  with  the  a- 
mounl  on  hand.  If  we  had  taken  the  Ft.  Bridger  road  to 
Ft,  Ha*  I  we  might  have  travelled  together  for  some  distance 
farther,  but  this  is  a  roundabout  way,  about  seventy-five 
miles  farther,  than  by  "Subletted  cut  off." 

The  little  Sandy  is  five  nailes  from  the  faction.  Here 
we  encamped,  that  is  the  greater  part  of  the  company. — 
As  our  captain  had  just  left  (going  by  Salt  Lake,  all  disci- 
pline was  suspended,)  and  a  part  of  the  company,  princi- 
pally from  Holmes  county,  O.,  travelled  a  few  miles  farther 
before  encamping.  A  day  or  two  after,  we  elected  J. 
Weirick,  of  Dalton,  captain,  and  something  like  arder  was 
again  restored.  Next  morning  (Sunday  May  19th,  )we 
left  Little  Sandy,  and  forded  the  Big  Sandy  five  miles  far* 
ther. 

As  there  is  no  water  and  very  little  grass,  between  this 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  21 

and  Green  River,  distant  35  miles,  we  rested  until  one  o'- 
clock, P.  M.,  in  order  to  prepare  our  stock  for  this  long 
drive.  We  likewise  supplied  ourselves  with  a  considerable 
quantity  of  water. 

We  encamped,  after  travelling  about  14  miles.  This 
part  of  the  road  is  tolerably  level,  but  somewhat  sandy  in 
pla'ees.  No  fuel  but  wild  sage.  Next  morning  at  3  £  o'- 
clock, A.  M.  we  left  the  encampment  and  reached  Green 
river  about  noon.  There  are  several  very  long,  steep  hills 
to  ascend  and  descend  in  this  distance. 

As  the  river  had  not  yet  risen  much,  we  were  able  to  ford 
it.  There  are  two  islands  in  it  at  this  ford.  Width  about 
300  yards.  This  is  a  very  dangerous  stream  to  cross,  ow- 
ing to  its  width,  depth  and  rapidity  of  current.  It  is  rare- 
ly fordable  during  the  months  of  June  and  July.  Numbers 
are  drowned  annually  in  attempting  to  cross  it.  We  rest- 
ed here  until  next  morning.  In  the  evening  we  had  a  cotil- 
lion party.  Our  spacious  room  was  illuminated,  by  light- 
ing two  or  three  dozens  of  sperm  candles,  and  arranging 
them  in  the  form  of  a  circle. 

Soon  the  violins  were  tuned  up,  and  the  performances: 
commenced.  The  evening's  entertainment  was  concluded 
by  singing  a  few  songs.  Unfortunately  none  of  the  "gen- 
tler sex"  was  present. 

Some  of  those  who  were  in  the  best  spirits  on  that  even- 
ing, have  long  since  found  graves  we$S  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada. 

Next  morning- we  left  the  ford,  and  travelling  about  six 
miles,  struck  a  branch  of  Green  river  coming  in  from  the 
north-west.  The  road  in  this  ditance  is  very  tortuous,  in* 
one  place  going  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  order  to  make 
about  sixty  rods  :  but  the  peculiarities  of  the  country  ren- 
dered this  necessary.  After  striking  this  branch,  we  fol- 
lowed it  about  six  miles,  and  crossed  it.  Rather  difficult 
on  account  of  the  swollen  state  of  the  stream. 

In  the  afternoon  we  travelled  about  thirteen  miles,  in  a 
direction  south  of  west,  and  encamped  near  the  foot  of  some 
high  bluffs,  partially  covered  with  snow. 

At  this  place  the  Lamison  and  Peffer  messes  threw  away 
their  wagons  and  "went  to  packing."  This  is  a  very  fine 
camping  place — plenty  of  fir  timber  and  snow  water* 


22  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS. 

Next  day  eighteen  milea  travel  brought  us  to  Ham's  fork 
of  Green  river. 

This  we  found  impossible  to  ford,  on  account  of  its  swol- 
len state.  A  wagon  bed  was,  therefore,  launched,  and  S. 
Coe  and  J.  Mendenhall,  Esq.  piU  aboard  to  paddle  it  across. 
The  rapidity  of  the  current  carried  it  under,  and  those  on 
board  swam  ashore.  A  number  followed  it  down  stream, 
and  recovered  it  about  a  half  a  mile  below, 

We  then  lashed  two  together,  with  a  similar  result.  No- 
thing more  towards  ferrying  was  done  this  day.  In  the 
evening  a  supper  was  "got  up/7  by  the  Hanson  &  messrs. 
Smith  messes,  of  which  quite  a  number  partook. 

Wild  goose,  wild  duck,  speckled  trout,  dumplings,  flap- 
jacks, hard  bread,  scewed  fruit  and  coffee,  comprised  the 
"bill  of  fare."  Next  day  was  spent  in  getting  logs  from 
the  mountains,  and  constructing  a  ferry. 

Next  morning  the  ferry  was  launched,  the  ropes  arran- 
ged, and  in  a  few  hours  every  thing  was  safely  landed  on 
the  opposite  bank.  The  horses  and  mules  swam  across, 
without  any  loss.  This  stream  is  about  fifty  feet  wide  and 
six  deep.  Later  in  the  season  it  is  much  shallower.  Next 
day  we  travelled  about  twenty  miles,  over  a  very  rough 
road,  and  encamped  in  Bear  river  valley,  about  three  miles 
from  the  stream.  During  this  day  we  were  compelled  to 
cut  a  road  through  the  snow  83  yards  long  and  four  feet 
deep. 

Next  day  (Sunday,  May  26th,)  we  had  several  snow 
storms.  About  noon  we  forded  Thomas7  fork  of  Bear  ri- 
ver. The  Fort  Bridger  road  unites  with  that  through  Sub- 
lette's  cut  off  at  this  placo.  In  the  afternoon  we  travelled 
about  16  miles,  and  encamped  near  another  branch  of  the 
river,  about  ten  feet  deep,  but  the  current  not  rapid.  Next 
day  we  ferried  with  an  ordinary  wagon  bed. 

The  wagons  being  unloaded  were  drawn  thro7  the  stream 
by  ropes.  Rather  a  laughable  adventure  occurred,  while 
doing  this.  A  wagon  was  started  into  the  stream  with  two 
or  three  in  it.  It  soon  began  to  sink,  and  went  down  until 
the  tops  of  the  bows  were  the  only  parts  above  the  surface. 
Terror  was  depicted  on  the  visages  of  those  in  the  wagon, 
who  not  being  acquainted  with  the  exact  depth  of  the 
stream,  seemed  afraid  that  they  too  might  get  lower  than 
the  surface.  We  encamped  about  one  mile  from  this  cross- 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  <23 

ing.  Wo  now  had  good  grass  generally,  and  the  stock 
wus  beginning  to  improve.  Wild  flax  is  found  in  this  val- 
ley. Wild  sage  for  fuel.  Next  morning  we  crossed  some 
bluffs,  and  struck  the  river  in  six  miles.  Encamped  twen- 
ty-one miles  further  down, — road  very  good.  Several 
small  streams  to  cross.  Next  day  about  noon  we  came  to 
the  <4Soda  Springs,"  15  miles  farther.  They  are  about 
half  a  naile  north  of  the  road.  The  water  is  impregnated 
with  carbonic  acid,  which  gives  it  the  property  of  holding 
certain  minerals  in  solution.  As  it  issues  from  the  surface 
it  loses  this  gas,  and  the  minerals  are  precipitated.  By 
this  process  large  mounds  of  calcareous  matter  have  been 
formed. 

This  water,  on  analysis,  yields  the  following  products  : 
Carbonate  of  Lime,  92.  50 

do.          Magnesia,  -  -  .50 

Silica,  Alumina,  and  loss,  7.  90 

100.  00 

With  the  oddition  of  any  of  the  vegetable  acids,  this 
makes  very  good  Soda  water.  ^ 

Steam  Boat  Spring  is  about  one  mile  lower  dow.n,  and 
very  near  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  water  is  thrown  from 
an  orifice  in  the  rock,  to  the  height  of  several  feet,  with  a 
kind  of  pulsatory  or  puffing  motion. 

In  chemical  constitution  this  water  is  somewhat  similar 
to  that  of  the  Soda  springs. 

About  four  miles  further  the  road  leaves  Bear  river  val- 
ley, and  turns  to  the  right,  crossing,  twenty  miles  further, 
a  dividing  ridge,  which  separates  the' waters  of  the  Pacific 
from  those  of  the  Great  Basin.  We  encamped  near  a 
spring  of  sweetish  water,  issuing  from  a  bed  of  volcanic 
matter.  This  is  about  eight  miles  from  the  Soda  or  Beer 
springs. 

Next  night  we  encamped  near  the  summit  of  the  ridgo 
last  mentioned.  We  had  several  showers  of  rain  during 
the  night.  Grass,  good  water  and  *'sage,"  plenty. 

Next  day,  when  about  three  miles  from  encampment, 
we  met  a  number  of  Indians  and  half  breeds,  who  had 
some  very  good  mules  and  horses  to  sell  or  trade.  Our 
company  made  a  number  of  exchanges,  and  bought  several 


24  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

horses.  About  twenty  miles  further  we  encamped  near 
Fort  Hall,  crossing  several  small  streams.  The  last  eight 
miles,  heavy  sand  road  and  maishy  streams. 


CHAPTER  Til." 

Fort  Hall— Port  fteuf  River— American  Falls  -Raft  River— 
Fall  Rirer-Oresfon  Road-Choose  Creek— Caatlc  Rocks—  Salt 
A,akc  Taller. 

There  are  two  forts  at  this  point ;  the  upper  one  belong, 
ing  to  the  United  States,  the  lower  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany. They  are  about  five  miles  apart.  No  supplies  are 
to  be  obtained  at  either  place,  except  bacon  and  whiskey, — 
the  latter  at  s»x  dollars  per  gallon.  I  think  the  establish- 
ment belonging  to  the  United  States,  was  deserted  a  few 
months  &ince,  probably  on  account  of  the  severity  of  a 
number  of  the  winters.  We  were  informed  that  several 
hundred  horses  had  died,  during  the  winter  of '49  and  '50, 
from  cold  and  want  of  food.  Mr.  Grant,  of  the  lower  fort, 
received  us  very  kindly,  and  gave  milk  to  those  of  the  com- 
pany who  applied  for  it,  for  which  he  would  receive  noth- 
ing. This  was  the  first  we  had  seen  since  leaving  the 
States. 

These  forts  are  situated  on  Lewis'  Fork  of  the  Colum- 
bia river,  about  1,300  miles  from  St.  Joseph. 

At  this  time  and  for  about  ten  days  previously,  great 
numbers  of  the  Company  were  suffering  from  "Rocky 
Mountain  Fever,"  peculiar  to  these  mountains.  It  is  very 
mild,  and  brief  in  its  duration,  rarely  requiring  more  than 
a  dose  of  calomel  fol-lowed,  if  necessary,  by  a  few  doses 
of  Dover's  Powder  or  Ipecac.  Aside  from  this  we  were 
all  in  the  enjoyment  of  excellent  health. 

We  lift  these  forts  about  9  o'clock,  A.  M.  (June  1st.) 
and  about  noon  forded  the  Port  Neuf  river  seven  miles  be- 
low. This  stream  is  about  one  hundred  yards  wide,  and 
four  feet  deep.  The  opposite  bank  is  rather  marshy. — 
The  Panack  River  is  seven  miles  lower  down — would  not 
be  difficult  to  ford,  but  for  its  miry  banks.  There  is  a  spring 
of  good  water  six  miles  farther,  in  the  valley  of  Lewis 
river.  Here  we  encamped.  We  had  considerable  mar- 
shy road  during  this  day. 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  26 

Next  morning,  five  miles  travel  brought  us  to  ihe  Amer- 
ican Falls  on  Lewis  River.  The  water  falls  thirty  or  forty 
feet  over  an  irregular  mass  of  rocks.  A  visit  to  the  falls 
will  amply  repay  the  traveller  for  his  trouble.  Fall  River 
is  seventeen  miles  farther.  This  derives  its  name  from 
the  number  of  falls  nenr  its  mouth.  Many  of  them  are 
old  beaver  dams  petrified.  It  is  about  thirty  feet  wide  and 
two  feet  deep.  The  descent  to,  and  ascent  from,  the 
stream  are  pretty  steep.  We  encamped  on  Raft  River 
about  eight  miles  farther.  Good  road  this  day. 

Some  who  have  written  "Guides  to  California"  describe 
the  road  from  Ft.  Hall  to  this  river  as  being  a  very  bad 
one,  but  if  they  were  to  travel  it,  they  would  hardly  find 
the  desperate  places  they  describe.  There  is  only  one  or 
two  ravines  in  this  distance  and  they  are  not  at  all  trouble- 
some. 

Next  morning  forded  the  river  at  encampment  and  re- 
forded  one  mile  farther.  Between  these  two  fords  we  left 
the  Oregon  Road,  which  keep 'to  the  right,  following  for 
a  considerable  distance,  Lewis  or  Snake  river. 

Fourteen  miles  from  the  second  ford  we  again  crossed 
:t.  The  stream  here  is  about  twenty-five  feet  wide,  and 
five  feet  deep.  Being  too  deep  to  ford  we  made  a  bridge 
Tjy  drawing  two  wagons  into  it,  and  on  these  we  carried  a- 
cross  the  baggage.  The  road  on  both  sides  of  the  stream 
at  this  crossing,  is  very  marshy.  Mud  in  many  places 
from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  deep.  Goose  Creek  is  nine 
miles  farther.  We  encamped  here — plenty  of  wood,  wa- 
ter and  grass.  Hedgpeth's  cut-off  comes  in  at  this  point. 
This  "cut-off"  leaves  the  road  about  four  miles  west  of 
Soda  Springs,  and  goes  by  a  more  direct  route  to  Goose 
Creek.  Probably  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  are  gained 
by  taking  this  "cut-off,"  but  after  all  very  little  time  is 
gained  by  it. 

The  weather  at  this  time  was  pretty  cool,  especially  in 
the  morning,  the  thermometer  at  5  o'clock  A.  M.  gener- 
ally from  two  to  six  degrees  below  the  freezing  point  of 
water. 

Next  day  towards  evening  we  passed  the  "Castle  Rocks," 
quite  an  assemblage  of  fantastically  shaped  rocks.  Some 
enterprising  traveller  has  painted  the  word  "hotel"  or 
•"City  Hotel"  in  tar  on  one  of  them.  The  "hotel"  is  suf- 

Cl 


25  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

ficiently  large  externally;  but  the  accommodations  at  pres- 
ent are  rather  slim. 

The  road  from  Salt  Lake  city,  comes  in  about  three 
miles  from  the  "rocks," 

We  encamped  near  a  small  stream  one  mile  farther.— 
Plenty  of  red  cedar  wood,  also  good  grass.  Provisions 
were  now  becoming  rather  scarce,  and  we  began  using  as 
a  substitute,  a  weed  or  "greens"  that  is  very  abundant- — 
Though  not  as  nutritious  as  a  great  many  other  things,  we 
could  at  least  "fill  up"  on  it. 

Permit  us  now  to  stop  a  short  time,  while  we  pen  a  few 
words  in  reference  to  the  "Salt  Lake  Valley,"  after  which 
\ve  will  resume  the  thread  of  our  narrative.  At  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Oregon  and  Salt  Lake  roads,  eighteen  miles 
west  of  the  South  pass,  the  latter  strikes  off  in  a  south  west 
direction,  crossing  Big  Sandy,  Green  River,  Ham's  Fork, 
and  Black's  Fork,  from  thence  over  the  dividing  ridges, 
separating  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  California  from  those 
of  the  Great  Basin.  There  are  a  great  many  streams  to 
cross,  and  the  country  generally  is  very  mountainous. — 
The  city  is  situated  between  the  Sail  and  Utah  Lakes,  and 
very  well  watered,  artificially,  by  a  small  stream  from  the 
neighboring  mountains.  Though  hemmed  in  by  mountains 
the  valley  is  very  fertile,  yielding  good  crops,  of  wheat  and 
other  grain.  Mechanic  Shops  and  mills  have  been  built,  and 
are  in  operation,  and  every  thing  seems  to  be  in  a  very  flour- 
ishing condition.  It  is  settled  principally  by  the  Latter 
Day  Saints  or  Mormons.  There  are  large  quantities  of 
rock  salt  and  other  minerals  in  the  neighboring  mountains. 
Near  the  city  there  are  hot,  cold,  and  tepid  springs  within 
a  few  feet  of  each  other,  which  aflfoid  great  facilities  for 
bathing  establishments. 

The  Great  Salt  Lake  north  of  the  city  is  of  considerable 
extent,  but  from  late  reports  is  very  shallow,  its  greatest 
depth  being  but  a  few  feet.  It  has  no  outlet  but  by  evap- 
oration. Its  waters  are  strongly  impregnated  with  saline 
matter;  five  gallons  in  the  month  of  September  or  October 
yields  fourteen  pints  of  salt,  being  almost  if  not  altogether, 
a  saturated  solution.  The  country  west  of  the  lake  is  bar- 
ren and  sandy,  producing  nothing  in  many  places,  but  sal- 
eratus.  There  is  a  trail  leading  west  from  the  city»  inter- 
secting the  road  from  Ft.  Hall  on  Humboldt  river,  but  the 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  27 

country  is  so  inhospitable,  that  few  travel  it.  The  ordina- 
ry road  leads  north  from  the  city,  intersecting  the  oth- 
er, ninety  miles  below  Ft.  Hall.  We  will  now  resume  our 
narrative. 


CHAPTER  VIII, 

Rattle  Snake  Rirrr-  Hot  Spring* -HutnbolcU  River— Sink— 
JLawsou.  Route— Rabbit  Wells— JDe*ert-Hot  Springs-Hfad 
Lake. 

Next  day  sixteen  miles  travel  brought  us  to  Rattle  Snake 
river;  and,  after  travelling  fifteen  miles,  we  encamped  near 
the  stream. 

In  the  next  forty-five  miles,  we  found  the  road  general- 
ly pretty  good  and  water  and  grass  plenty.  At  this  point 
we  pased  a  number  of  hot  springs.  Temperature  near  that 
of  boiling  water.  The  soil  in  this  part  of  the  route  is 
strongly  charged  with  alkaline  salts.  We  were  detained 
near  the  springs  two  or  three  hours,  by  a  marshy  piece  of 
road.  The  ford  of  Humboldt  River  is  forty  miles  farther. 
We  crossed  several  marshy  streams  a  few  miles  east  of 
this  ford.  We  arrived  here  June  8th,  about  noon.  The 
river  here  is  about  thirty  feet  wide  and  six  feet  deep.  We 
ferried  it  in  a  wagon  bed,  After  loading  up,  and  travel- 
ling half  a  milo,  we  were  again  detained  by  a  very  swampy 
branch  of  the  river.  We  took  the  mules  and  horses  from 
the  wagons  and  assisted  them  across,  after  which  we  pul- 
led ihe  wagons  through  ourselves.  This  consumed  the 
balance  of  the  afternoon,  and  we  therefore  encamped. — 
About  dark  we  were  visited  by  a  storm  of  rain  for  which 
we  were  well  prepared,  having  already  thrown  away  tents, 
wagon  covers,  and  extra  clothing.  We  had  supposed 
these  things,  would  be  no  longer  required,  as  a  "guide"  we 
had  with  us,  contained  the  expression,  "it  seldom  rains 
here." 

Next  morning  we  crossed  another  branch  about  a  mile 
from  camp.  This  was  not  so  miry  as  the  other.  There 
is  another  branch  about  twenty  miles  farther,  about  one 
hundred  feet  wide  and  three  feet  deep,  Not  difficult  to 
ford.  Encamped  near  the  river  seven  miles  farther.  We 
had  some  grass  here,  but  did  not,  as  yet,  see  the  line  of 


23  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS* 

cotton  wood  and  willow  trees,  which  is  said  to  mark  the 
course  of  the  river.  Abont  21  miles  farther  the  road 
forks,  the  left  hand  one  keeping  near  the  stream,,  crossing  it 
a  number  of  times,  while  the  other  does  not  cross  it  at  alL 
Early  in  the  season  the  river  road  can  scarcely  be  trav- 
elled on  account  of  the  swollen  state  of  the  stream.  The 
two  roads  frequently  intersect  each  other.  We  encamped 
fifteen  miles  farther  after  crossing  another  small  branch- 
Distance  to  day  about  thirty-six  miles.  Next  forenoon  we 
travelled  about  twelve  miles  and  stopped  near  a  spring  of 
good  water.  Good  grass  here.  This  is  on  the  bluffs- 
several  miles  from  the  river.  We  generally  had  mucb 
better  grass  on  these  than  in  the  immediate  valley  of  the- 
river. 

From  some  cause  we  did  not  find1  much  of  the  4tblue 
grass,  herds  grass,  clover  and  other  nutritious  grasses,"1 
with  which  the  valley  is  said  to  be  "beautifully  clothed.7*1 

We  encamped  on  the  river  fifteen  miles  farther.  Grass 
poor.  Cold  rains  nearly  all  day.  "The  great  heat  of  the 
sun,  and  continued  clouds  of  dust  did  not  trouble  us  very 
much"*  Next  day  we  travelled  about  twenty-seven  miles,, 
generally  near  the  river.  Grass  poor.  Surface  of  the 
earth  covered  with  alkaline  salts.  Small  branches  in  this 
vicinity,  are  about  the  color  of  good  lyfi  from  ashes.  The^ 
whole  country  in  wet  weather,  smells  like  an  old  ashery. — 
Grease  Wood,  a  small,  scruggy,  prickly,  ugly  bush,  com- 
prises the  timber  in  many  places.  Where  this  grows  you. 
will  rarely  find  any  thing  else. 

Travelled  next  day  thirty  miles,  generally  some  distance 
from  the  river — country  a  sterile  waste,  not  ''furnishing 
the  requisite  for  the  emigrants*"  comfort  in  abundance"! 

Cold  and  rainy  all  day. 

Travelled  next  day  about  sixteen  miles,  finding  pretty 
good  in  several  places,  sage  for  fuel.  Rain  and  Snow  du- 
ring the  night. 

There  is  another  very  miry  branch  about  20  miles  fur- 
ther. We  crossed  about  a  mile  above  the  ordinary  ford. 
Depth  of  stream  three  feet.  M*ud!  on  the  opposite  bank 
about  two  feet.  Here  we  again  drew  the  wagons  through 
by  manual  force. 

*  Ware's  guide  to  California,  page  33. 
h  Ware's  guMe  to  California,  puge  3& 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  29 

Encamped  in  the  river  valley  three  miles  farther.  Next 
day  we  travelled  about  24  miles,  generally  near  the  river. 
We  could  not  travel  in  the  immediate  valley  on  account  of 
the  swollen  state  of  the  stream.  The  low  bluffs  are  fatigu- 
ing, on  account  of  the  depth  of  the  sand.  We  arrived  at 
the  point  last  mentioned,  about  5  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  con- 
cluded we  could  go  a  short  distance  further. 

Eight  miles  further,  over  a  barren  plain,  we  encamped, 
without  any  wood,  water  or  grass.  As  we  had  nothing  to 
cook  by,  and  very  little  to  cook,  supper  was  dispensed  with. 
Evening  cold  and  rainy. 

Leaving  camp  before  breakfast,  we  reached  the  river  a- 
gain  about  sunrise — distant  six  miles  from  encampment. 

We  might  remark  here,  that  Humboldt  river  empties,  or 
loses  itself,  in  a  marshy  lake,  surrounded  with  bullrushes, 
called  the  "Sink"  ;  and  from  the  features  of  the  country 
we  considered  it  not  far  distant. 

We  rested  here  until  one  o'clock.  P.  M.,  supplying  our- 
selves with  water  and  grass,  to  use  while  crossing  the 
Great  Desert. 

Five  miles  farther  we  left  the  river,  expecting  to  strike 
Truckles,  or  Salmon  Trout,  in  forty  miles.  Instead  of  ta- 
king this  road  we  should  have  gone  on  to  the  Sink,  seven- 
ty-five miles  farther,  then  across  the  desert  to  Truck ies,  or 
Carson  river,  and  from  thence  across  the  mountains,  to 
Johnson's  or  Bear  river,  or  Hangtown,  near  the  American. 
But  fortunately,  or  unfortunately,  we  took  the  Lawsorr, 
or  Green  Horn's  cut  off,  which  is  farther  than  the. other 
routes — but  the  road  is  better.  There  are  also  more  and 
better  grass  and  water. 

We  left  the  river  about  four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  travel- 
led about  15  miles.  After  getting  seven  or  eight  miles  from 
the  river,  we  found  good  grass  at  a  number  of  points. 

Next  day,  about  noon,  we  arrived  at  the  "rabbit  wells," 
sixteen  miles  further. 

We  found  pretty  good  water  in  the  wells, — but  later  in 
the  season  it  is  unfit  for  use. 

There  are  hundreds  of  ox  skeletons  between  the  river 
and  these  wells,  which  had  died  the  previous  season,  from 
lack  of  food,  there  being  very  little  good  grass  after  the  first 
of  July.  Bunch  grass  is  the  principal  article  of  food  in 
this  part  of  the  route.  This,  in  the  proper  season,  is  very 


30  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS. 

nutritious,  being  almost  equal  to  oats  or  corn.  It  ripens  a- 
bout  the  middle  of  June.  An  hour's  drive  from  the  wells,, 
brings  you  to  the  desert  proper — a  vast  plain  entirely  desti- 
tute of  vegetation. 

The  sand  is  very  .light  and  porous — the  mules  and  hor- 
ses sinking  in  six,  or,  eight  inches,  when  it  is  perfectly  dry. 
This,  with  the  continued  clouds  of  dust,  renders  travelling, 
fatiguing  and  unpleasant.  The  road  is  strewed  with  wag- 
ons and  every  other  species  of  property.  The  carcases  of 
oxen  are  scattered  everywhere.  Owing  to  the  heat  and* 
drynessof  the  atmosphere,  these  do  not  undergo  putrefac- 
tion, but  become  dry  and  hard,  leaving  the  animal  almost 
entire. 

The  stillness  of  death  reigns  over  this  vast  plain, — not 
the  rustling  of  a  leaf  or  the  hum  of  an  insect,  to  break  in  on 
the  eternal  solitude.  •  Man  alone  dares  to  break  it.  The 
desert,  on  the  different  routes,  varies  in  width  from  twenty 
to  fifty  miles, 

The  "Hot  Springs"  are  about  twenty-one  miles  from* 
the  "rabbit  wells.'7  There  is  some  grass  near  them.  The 
main  one  is  about  twelve  feet  in  diameter,,  and  probably  one 
hundred  feet  deep.  Water  perfectly  transparent, — tempe--- 
rature  that  of  boiling  water.  Meat  may  be  boiled  in  a  few- 
minutes.. 

There  are  other  springs  and  wells  in  the  vicinity,  but  the 
water,  late  in  the  season,  is  too  brackish  to  be  fit  for  use. 
The  road  between  the  springs  and  Mud  lake  is  pretty  san- 
dy, — very  little  grass  or  wateiv — distance  25  miles.  We 
encamped  here  Wednesday  evening  June  19ih. 

About  three  miles  fiom  encampment  we  gained  the  sum- 
mit of  a  bluff*'  There  is  said  to  be  pure  silver  scattered  o-. 
ver  this*.  There  is  a  small  lake  about  two* miles  farther,  to- 
the  left  of  the  road.  A  short  distance  from  the  lake  the 
yoad  enters  a  very  narrow,  rocky  ravine,  or  valley — very 
narrow  and  tortuous  in  many  places — with  perpendicular 
rocks  on  each  side,  several  hundred  feet  in  height. 

There  is  a  small  stream  of  good  water  and  good  grass  in 
this  valley.  It  is  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  A  few 
miles  from  the  ravine  we  found  a  few  gallons  of  good  vine- 
gar, which  had  been  left  by  some  emigrant.  This  was 
quite  an  addition  to  the  "greens/7 

We  encamped  about  thirty  miles  from  the  exit  from  that- 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  31 

last  mentioned  valley.  In  this  distance  we  passed  a  num- 
ber of  small  lakes,  which  Fine  the  western  ri*n  of  the  "Great 
Basin/7  Next  morning  we  stopped  andi  breakfasted  or* 
greens,  oats,  &c.,  near  some  hot  springs  about  two  miles 
from  encampment.  We  stopped  at  the  base  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  six  miles  farther,  crossing  a  marshy  valley  eon- 
taining  several  lakes. 

CHAPTER  IX- 

Sierra  Neratla— Pilt  River— Indian    Difficulties— Ail   Oregon 
Company— Something  to  eat— Ulurtler  of  the  Canton  me**- 

We  travelled  along  the  base  of  the  mountains  about  six 
miles  before  beginning  the  ascent. 

During  this  time,  and  for  days  before,  several  members 
of  the  company  thought  we  were  or*  the  road  to  Oregon,  or 
some  place  else  than  California,  and  advised  the  expedien- 
cy of  going  back.  This  probable  would  not  have  been  pro- 
posed, had  it  not  been,  that  we  were  almost  entirely  out  of 
provisions.  But  the  majority  were  for  going  ahead,  let 
the  road  lead  where  it  would,  as  some  mules  might  be  kil- 
-  led  for  food,  did  things  become  desperate. 

About  three  miles  from  the  beginning  of  the  ascent,  the 
Salem  and  Hanson  messes  with  the  exception  of  J.  Men- 
denhall  and  J.  Campbell,  took  the  "back  track"  for  Hum* 
boldt  River,  distance  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  having 
to  recross  the  desert,  and  again  cross  it  on  the  "Carson?? 
or  "Truckie"  route. 

We  began  ascending  the  mountain  about  four  o'clock, 
P.  M.  and  encamped  for  the  first  time  west  of  the  J'Sierra 
Nevada,"  or  snowy  mountain.  It  is  very  steep  at  this 
pass,  but  not  so  rocky  as-  at  the  Carson  or  Truck ie. 

It  was  not  found  necessary  to  double  any  of  the  teams. 

The  scene  from  the  summit  is  grand  in  the  extreme. — 
Lofty  ranges  of  mountains,  are  seen  distinctly  though  dis- 
tant hundreds  of  miles.  Their  summits  crowned  with  eter- 
nal snow,  and  their  sides  with  dense  forests  of  pine  and  ce- 
dar. Owing  to  the  dryness  and  purity  of  the  atmosphere, 
the  outline  of  the  most  distant  object  is  distinctly  marked* 
All  the  varied  scenery  of  the  four  seasons  are  recognized 
at  a  single  view.  The  valleys  clothed  with  vegetation,  the 
mountain  tops  presenting  all  the  indices  of  perpetual  wia- 


33  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

ter.     Be:  ween  these  two  extremes  there  is  every  variety  of 
climate. 

Next  morning  (Sunday  23d,)  discovering  indications  of 
marshy  road  ahead,  we  concluded  to  make  "this  the  last 
day  with  the  wagons/5  and  begin  packing.  Accordingly 
the  wagons  were  converted  into  pack-saddles  as  soon  a§ 
possibFe,  extra  baggage  thrown  away,  and  by  noon  we 
were  again  *»en  route." 

During  the  afternoon  we  travelled  along  the  eastern  shore 
of  Pitt  Lake,  and  encamped  opposite  the  southern  extremity 
of  it. 

Distance  this  afternoon  eighteen  miles.  Next  day  about 
noon  we  reached  Pitt  river,  eighteen  miles  further.  Ten 
miles  further  we  forded  it,  and  encamped  four  miles  fur- 
ther. 

We  were  detained  in  the  afternoon  by  a  case  of  poison- 
ing. Mr.  Daniel  Rudy,  of  Stark  county,  (X,  eat  rather 
plentifully  of  a  root,  which  in  taste  and  appearance  resem- 
bles the  fat  of  hogs.  This  proved  a  very  violent  emetic, 
find  might  produce  death  in  certain  cases.  Some  were  quite 
elafted,  when  the  root  was  discovered;  remarking  that  they 
could  **novv  have  fat  to  cook  with  the  greens," — but  the 
result  of  the  first  experiment  crushed  their  brilliant  expec- 
tations. 

Next  day  we  travelled  about  thirty  miles,  fording  the  ri- 
ver several  times. 

Road  considerably  marshy.  We  avoided  this  by  trav- 
elling on  the  neighboring  bluffs.  During  the  day  we  noti- 
ced several  Indian  signal  fires,  but  did  not  anticipate  an  at- 
tack from  them.  A  few  hours  undeceived  us.  Next  mor- 
ning, some  time  before  day  light,  a  party  of  Digger  Indi- 
ans, killed,  wounded  and  drove  off,  more  than  half  of  the 
stock  belonging  to  the  company,  without  making  any  at- 
tack upon  ourselves. 

We  had  not  been  apprehending  any  trouble  from  these 
tribes,  and  had  no  one  on  watch.  This  carelessness,  toge- 
ther with  our  being  nearly  without  arms,  rendered  it  a  very 
easy  matter  to  accomplish  the  robbery.  A  few  remained 
at  camp  in  order  to  pack  the  baggage,  or  part  of  it,  on  what 
horses  and  mules  remained,  while  the  balance  went  in  search 
of  any  that  might  be  found  in  the  vicinity.  We  were  to 
meet  about  three  miles  further.  About  one  mile  from  camp 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  33 

we  found  tho  body  of  <»Spot,"  a  splendid  mare  belonging  to 
the  messrs.  Hoovers' of  Dalton.  She  had  borne,  well,  the 
fatigues  of  the  journey,  and  had  rendered  us  signal  service 
the  evening  before,  while  crossing  the  stream.  The  Indi- 
ans had  carried  away  part  of  the  carcase,  and  some  of  our 
company  took  a  part  of  that  which  was  left.  About  ten  o'- 
clock, A.  M.,  we  met  at  the  place  before  designated,  and 
held  a  "council  of  war." 

It  was  determined  that  our  only  gun  should,  if  possible, 
be  brought  into  shooting  order — a  service  which  it  had  ceas- 
ed to  perform  for  some  time  previously*  A  similar  decree 
was  passed  upon  what  pistols  we  had. 

It  was  also  determined  that  R.  F.  Cahill  and  Wm.  W- 
Connell  shonld  take  horses,  and  go  ahead  to  the  nearest  set- 
tlements, and  return  with  some  provisions,  while  we  in  the 
meantime  should  hurry  along  as  fast  as  possible.  They 
accordingly  set  out  with  about  one  pound  of  provisions, 
consisting  of  boiled  corn,  scraps  of  hard  bread,  and  dried 
apples,  mixed  together.  We  travelled  about  six  miles  fur- 
ther, and  stopped  for  dinner.  Bill  of  fare  boiled  corn  and 
horse  beef!  ( We  had  reserved  some  corn  and  oats  to  feed 
the  stock  while  crossing  the  desert;  but  as  it  was  not  requi- 
red, we  began  boiling  it  for  our  own  use.) 

While  dining  Cahill  and  M'Connel  returned,  inform- 
ing us,  that  they  had  overtaken  an  Oregon  train  which 
was  a  few  miles  ahead,  and  from  which  we  might  get  some 
provisions.  We  learned  that  we  were  yet  about  two  hun- 
dred miles  from  the  settlements.  We  at  once  started  for- 
ward regardless  of  road  or  rocks,  and  overtook  the  Oregon- 
ians  about  5  o'clock,  P.  M.  At  our  request  they  prepared 
some  supper,  for  which  we  paid  them  one  dollar  per^man. 
Taking  their  prices  as  a  standard,  I  suppose  we  eat  three 
or  four  dollars  worth.  We  paid  them  one  dollar  per  pound 
for  flour  and  bacon  and  fifty  cents  for  shorts,  and  could 
not  get  a  sufficient  supply  at  these  rates. 

We  thought  these  rates  very  high,  and  as  some  of  them 
required  some  medical  attention,  our  fees  were  made  to 
correspond  to  a  certain  extent  with  theirs,  an  arrangement 
which  seemed  to  grind  some  of  them  considerably.  At 
this  place  we  crossed  Pitt  River  for  the  last  time.  On 
this  river  there  is  a  rock  of  pure  carbonate  of  magnesia,  a- 
bout  one  hundred  feet  in  height — enough  to  supply  the 


34  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

world  for  ages.  It  is  as  pure  and  light  as  the  commer- 
cial article.  There  are  also  near  the  source  of  the  river — 
some  very  peculiar  crystalized  rocks,  some  of  them,  two 
four  sided  pyramids  applied  baste  to  base. 

About  two  days,  after  we  were  robbed  by  the  Indians; 
the  Canton  mesa  consisting  of  seven  or  eight  persons  were 
killed  at  the  same  place.  They  had  been  travelling  with 
us  until  about  the  time  we  struck  Humbo-ldt  River,  but  their 
team  giving  out  they  were  compelled  to  drive  more  slowly. 
They  encamped  on  the  river  (Pitt,)  and  during  the  eve- 
ning were  attacked.  One  was  killed.  Next  morning 
they  were  visited  by  a  few,  who  by  signs  informed  them, 
that  in  order  to  secure  themselves  from  another  attack, 
they  should  at  once  leave  their  encampment  and  move  for- 
ward. This  they  declined  doing,  as  they  were  determined 
to  bury  their  friend,  and  wait  for  the  Messrs.  Childs  and 
Miller,  who  were  a  short  distance  behind.  In  a  short  time 
they  wore  attacked  by  a  larger  number,  who  took  from  them 
every  thing  they  had,  leaving  them  entirely  naked.  They 
were  then  ordered  to  swim  the  stream,  but  before  reach- 
ing the  oppo&ite  shore  were,  with  a  single  exception,  kit- 
led  by  a  shower  of  arrows.  At  this  moment  the  report  of 
a  gun  in  the  vicinity,  caused  them  to  retreat  precipitately, 
leaving  George  Stuck  of  Canton,  in  the  stream,  among  the 
bushes  lining  its  banks,  badly  wounded; 

Miller  and  the  Childs*  coming  up  in  a  few  nTornercts,  res- 
cued him  from  his  perikms  situation,  gave  him  clothing, 
and  brought  him  to  Lawson's,  The  gun  of  which  we  have 
spoken  had  been  fired  at  a  d-ove,  by  one  of  the  Childs. — 
Stuck  remained  near  Lawson's  for  a  short  time  ,  but  being 
supplied  with  funds  he  started  for  home.  While  in  San 
Francisco  he  was  attacked  by  diarrhoea  or  dysentery  and 
died.  These  Indian  tribes  have  been  warring  with  the 
whites,  especially  the  Oregonians,  for  a  number  of  years, 
each  party  destroyingoae  or  more  of  the  other,  when  ever 
an  opportunity  presents  itself.  This  accounts  for  these 
attacks.  These  tribes  a  re  great  cowards  and  never  make- 
an  attack,  unless  the  odds  are  greatly  irt  their  favor.  We 
had  thrown  away  our  arms  and  were  therefore  unprepared 
to  resist  the  most  feeble  attack.  These  Indians  were  se- 
verely chastised  by  several  companies  from  California  set* 
during  the  last  summer. 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  35 

CHAPTER  I. 

letting   Short    again- A    imrty   of  »<Pro*pectcrs"-F«att»or 
Hirer  meadow*— Deer  Creek— I-awson'». 

After  purchasing  our  provisions,  and  making  inquiries 
in  reference  to  the  road,  we  again  set  forward,  and  after 
trrvelling  sixteen  miles  encamped  on  Pitt  River  in  company 
with  the  Oregonians.  Some  were  already  complaining  of 
being  sick;  but  when  it  is  remembered  that  we  had  been 
living  on  almost  nothing  for  some  time,  it  is  readily  sup- 
posed that  entirely  too  much  was  eaten  when  the  opportu- 
nity presented  itself,  and  derangement  of  the  digestive  or- 
gans, might  as  a  matter  of  course,  be  expected  to  result. 

Friday  June  28th.  Left  encampment,  and  at  once  en- 
tered on  a  piece  of  marshy  ground  of  ten  miles  in  breadth. 
Depth  of  mud  from  one  to  three  feet.  Encamped  twelve 
miles  farther, — wood,  water  and  grass,  plenty. 

Next  two  days  travelled  about  forty  miles  and  encamped 
near  a  small  lake,  in  company  with  a  party  of  "prospec- 
tors" a  term  applied  to  those,  in  search  of  "diggins." 

Our  supply  of  provisions  growing  "short"  we  were  again 
on  rations.  We  were  presented  with  some  fresh  venison,  by 
the  miners.  They  informed  us  that  the  mining  districts 
generally  were  crowded,  that  provisions  had  become  much 
cheaper,  and  people  in  general  not  growing  rich  very  fast 

Next  day  we  travelled  about  twenty-eight  miles  and  en- 
camped near  "Feather  River  Meadows."  Next  morning 
left  encampment  very  early  and  arrived  at  the  ford  about 
sun  rise,  distant  three  miles.  The  river  runs  through  the 
valley  here,  in  two  different  branches.  Early  in  summer, 
the  entire  valley  one  and  a  half  miles  in  width,  is  entirely 
covered  with  water.  The  branches  were  about  four  feet 
deep,  the  remainder  of  the  valley  varied  from  one  to  three 
feet  of  mud  and  water.  Cold,  wet,  and  hungry,  we  stopped 
on  the  opposite  bluff,  to  prepare  and  eat  our  scanty  break- 
fast. The  following  scene  will  give  the  reader  an  idea  of 
our  financier  ing  in  cookery. 

A.Clark,  M.  Hoover,  and  ourself  were  cooking  for  our- 
selves and  eleven  others  belonging  to  the  mess.  Our  stock 
of  provisions,  consisted  of  a  lot  of  musty  tea,  a  few  pounds 
of  flour  and  a  few  dried  elder  berries.  Hoover  made  the 
tea,  while  Clark  and  I  made  the  soup  and  dumplings, — the 


36  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS. 

preparations  of  the  latter  articles,  being  by  experimental 
philosophy,  deemed  the  most  economical  method  of  dispo- 
sing of  the  flour.  A  handful  of  the  berries  were  put  into 
two  camp  kettles  holding  about  six  gallons  of  water. — 
These  gave  color  and  consistency  to  the  soup,  A  small 
quantity  of  flour  was  then  made  into  a  stiff  batter.  This 
was  carefully  divided  by  a  spoon  into  a  certain  number  of 
pieces,  corresponding  to  the  number  of  individuals  in  the 
mess. 

The  result  of  this  ceremony  was  always  announced  in  or- 
der that  each  one  might  learn,  the  amount  of  his  share.  I 
suppose  any  one  might  have  eaten  the  entire  amount,  of 
course  excluding  a  portion  of  the  six  gallons  of  tasteless 
soup. 

Next  day,  forenoon,  travelled  two  miles,  and  dined  on 
musty  tea  alone. 

Encamped  fourteen  miles  farther,  in  * 'Little  Valley,'5 
on  Deer  Creek. 

1  Next  day  about  noon  we  stopped  at  a  small  stream,  the 
last  water  we  had  until  reaching  the  valley  of  the  Sacra- 
mento River.  In  the  afternoon  and  night,  we,  or  least 
some  of  us,  reached  dry  creek  in  the  valley,  distant  thirty 
miles — the  road  mountainous  and  rocky.  A  few  got 
through  to  water,  but  the  majority  were  scattered  along  the 
road  for  several  miles,  worn  out  by  hunger,  thirst,  and  fa- 
tigue. 

Next  day  Thursday  July  4th,  about  noon,  we  encamped 
on  Deer  Creek  about  half  a  mile  from  Lawson's  Rancho. 

We  got  up  a  Fourth  of  July  dinner  on  musty  hard  bread, 
and  beef  bones  in  a  state  of  incipient  putrefaction,  which 
was  as  highly*  relished  by  us,  as  any  of  the  more  sumptu- 
ous repasts,  served  up  to  our  friends  in  the  States. 

We  were  received,  and  treated  very  kindly  by  a  party 
of  miners,  who  were  jerking  beef  in  the  vicinity  of  our 
camp. 

From  this  time  the  members  of  our  company  began  to 
separate,  and  in  a  few  days  were  as  a  general  thing,  nun- 
dreds  of  miles  apart.  Those  who  came  by  the  Salt  Lake, 
Carson  and  Truckle  routes,  reached  Sacramento  Valley 
about  the  time  we  did. 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  37 

CHAPTER  XL 

Native  Gold— Where  found— method*  of  obtaining  it. 

Thismelal  is  obtained  pure,  or  in  combination  with  silver* 
copper,  iron,  palladium,  or  tellurium.  It  is  also  found 
combined  with  the  sulphuret  or  oxide  of  iron.  When  mel- 
ted and  thrown  up  by  Volcanic  agency,  it  is  found  in  every 
possible  variety  of  shape.  When  crystalizing  it  generally 
«  assumes  the  form  of  tho  cube  or  octahedron. 

Its  feeble  affinity  for  oxygen  prevents  it  from  tarnishing, 
and  by  this  property  is  readily  detected,  when  in  combina- 
tion with  those  metals  that  do  not,  so  highly,  possess  this 
property.  Geologically  it  is  found  in  granite,  quartz,  mi- 
ca, slate,  syenites,  green  stone,  and  trachyte.  In  the  mines 
of  California  generally  with  quartz. 

Small  grains  or  larger  pieces  are  observed  studding  the 
surface  of  the  latter  rock,  but  many  specimens  contain 
•considerable  quantities,  which  cannot  be  detected  by  the 
senses. 

In  order  to  obtain  it  the  rock  is  pulverized,  triturated 
with  quicksilver,  which  readily  unites  with  it,  and  the  com- 
pound being  washed  out,  the  quicksilver  is  distilled  off, 
leaving  the  gold  in  the  retort. 

Gold  is  notactedupon  by  nitric,  sulphuric,  or  chlorhydic 
acids,  while  many  of  the  other  metals  are.  When  com- 
bined with  silver,  copper  or  iron,  the  compound  may  be 
placed  in  one  of  the  acids,  which  acts  upon  these,  while 
the  gold  remains  unaffected.  The  aqua  regia  of  the  old 
chemists,  a  combination  of  nitric  and  chlorohydric  acids, 
will  dissolve  it,  though  not  affected  by  either  one  sepa- 
rately employed. 

Gold  is  found  in  California,  in  fine  dust,  or  in  pieces 
weighing  from  a  grain  to  several  pounds.  That  from  the 
middle  Fork  of  the  American  River,  and  Feather  River,  in 
the  latter  part  of  its  course,  is  generally  in  the  form  of 
scales,  and  is  very  pure. 

From  the  Nortfy  Fork  of  Feather  River  and  some  other 
streams,  in  irregularly  shaped  lumps,  frequently,  coated 
with  black  oxide  of  iron. 

The  gold  from  tho  *»Kayote"  diggins  on  Deer  creek 
contains,  I  believe  some  silver,  and  is  not  worth  more  than 

Dl 


38  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS. 

fourteen  dollars  per  ounce,  while  that  from  other  "diggins" 
is  worth  from  sixteen  to  sixteen  and  a  half. 

This  metal  is  generally  sought  for  and  obtained  in  the 
mountainous  parts  of  the  country,  in  the  bars  along  the 
streams,  or  the  gulches  or  ravines  along  the  mountain 
sides — The  former  constitutes  the  "wet"  the  latter  the 
"dry"  diggins.  The  "wet"  are  worked  during  the  latter 
mouths  of  summer  after  the  water  has  fallen  enough  to  ex- 
pose the  bars.  The  4kdry"  during  the  rainy  season  when 
the  ravines  have  water  in  them.  Small  quantities  of  fine 
gold  may  be  carried  down  the  rivers  near  their  mouths,  but 
in  quantities  too  inconsiderable  to  make  it  an  object  to  wash 
it  out.  During  the  summer  of  1850  the  majority  of  miners 
were  engaged  in  "darning"  the  streams,  supposing  that 
valuable  deposits  would  be  found  in  their  beds,  but  these 
generally  failed,  scarcely  one  in  ten  paying  expenses. — 
Many  who  were  in  possession  of  several  thousand  dollars 
in  the  spring,  found  themselves  when  the  dams  were  com- 
pleted, without  any  thing,  and  deeply  in  debt. 

In  order  to  obtain  the  "dust,"  the  soil,  sand,  and  shingle 
is  dug  out  from,  among  the  rocks,  placed  in  a  pan  or  wash- 
er, and  washed  off,  the  gold  from  its  great  specific  weight 
being  precipitated  to  the  bottom.  If  the  gold  be  fine,  mer- 
cury is  mixed  with  the  dust,  their  affinity  causing  them  to 
unite  at  once.  The  amalgam  is  then  placed  in  a  retort 
and  the  mercury  distilled  off. 

Machines  are  being  erected  in  many  places  to  crush 
quartz  rock,  many  specimens  of  which  yield  from  twenty- 
five  to  fifty  cents  per  pound.  This  in  the  course  of  a  few 
years  will  be  the  principal  business  carried  on  by  gold 
hunters,  as  the  bar  and  ravine  washings,  are  as  a  general 
thing,  pretty  well  worked  out. 

The  gold  mines  of  the  far  west,  occupy  quite  an  exten- 
sive region — Gold  is  obtained  from  many  of  the  rivers  of 
Oregon — from  the  Sah  Lake  country, — the  eastern  slope  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  from  nearly  all  the  streams  in  Up- 
per California. 

The  vast  amount  of  this  metal  in  the  possession  of  the 
Montezumas,  at  the  lime  Mexico  was  conquered  by  the 
Spaniards,  had  been  obtained,  most  probably,  in  the  moun- 
tains on  the  Gila  River.  The  Indian  tribes  in  this  part  of 
the  country,  seem  to  have  some  knowledge  on  this  point, 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  39 

and  make  every  effort  to  prevent  the  whites  fronm  exr 
ing  the  country. 

They  are  also  in  possession  of  certain  traditions,  which 
say  these  mines  were  once  extensively  worked,  and  yielded 
large  quantities  of  Gold. 

The  roughness  of  the  country  and  hostility  of  the  Indi- 
ans have  as  yet  prevented  many  from  exploring  it. 

It  should  not  be  undertaken  by  less  than  a  company  of 
thirty  men,  armed  with  revolvers,  with  good  mules  and 
plenty  of  provisions.  Even  then,  it  would  be  a  trip  atten- 
ded with  extreme  danger  and  privation. 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Climate  of  California,  -its  Cause— ,SoiI,— I'roduclion*,— Ani- 
mals, Are. 

The  climate  of  California  is  considerably  milder  than  at 
the  same  latitude  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  whole  Paci- 
fic coast  of  North  America  follows  the  same  law  ;  the  dif- 
ference in  temperature  being  equal  to  ten  or  fifteen  degrees 
of  latitude.  The  following  theory  will,  probably,  explain 
satisfactorily  the  cause  of  this  difference.  Large  tracts  of 
high  land,  in  or  near  the  polar  regions,  serve  as  vast  mag- 
azines of  cold,  which  exert  a  chilly  influence  on  countries 
at  considerable  distances  from  them.  The  large  tracts  of 
land  north  and  north-east  of  British  America,  no  doubt, 
exert  this  effect  upon  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  U.  States  pro- 
per; while  the  country  on  or  near  the  Pacific  coast,  is  not 
subject  to  such  an  influence.  Water  especially,  when  in  a 
large  body,  exerts  an  equalizing  effect  on  the  climate  of  a 
country — moderating  the  cold  of  winter  and  heat  of  sum- 
mer; preventing  what  are  called  '^excessive  climates." — 
The  North  Pacific,  probably,  exerts  an  effect  of  this  kind. 

There  are,  properly,  but  two  seasons  in  California — the 
"wet"  and  "dry." 

It  generally  begins  to  rain  between  the  first  of  Novem- 
ber and  latter  part  of  December,  and  continues  until  about 
the  middle  of  April.  There  r»re  frequent  intermissions, 
during  which  the  weather  is  as  mild  as  during  our  April. — 
Grass,  and  vegetation  generally,  begins  to  grow  at  the  com- 
mencement of  this  season. 

From  the  middle  of  April  until  the  ensuing  ••winter,'* 


4C»  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 

there  i?  generally  no  rain — the  sun  being  unobscured  by 
c'oucisibr  months  at  a  time.  Owing  to  this,  vegetation 
begins  to  suffer  ?about  the  middle  of  June. 

During  the  montns  of  July  ami  August  the  temperature 
is  frequently  as  high  as  140  deg.  in  the  sun,  and  110  or 
112°  in  the  shade.  But  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  atmos- 
phere, this  exalted  temperature  is  not  move  insufferable 
than  that  of  75  deg.  in  the  "States" — this  condition  of  the 
air  promoting  a  rapid  evaporation. 

An  individual  perspiring  freely,  feels  comfortable  during 
the  hottest  montns. 

There  is  scarcely  ever  any  dew,  especially  in  the  valleys. 

The  climate  of  this  country  is  certainly  as  pleasant  as  a- 
riy  in  the  world. 

Occasionally  there  is  but  very  little  rain  during  the  wet 
season, — and  if  this  be  the  case,  vegetation  the  ensuing  sea- 
son  is  apt  to  suffer  very  much.  The  last  winter  has  beea 
one  of  this  description.  Fifteen  years  ago  there  was  a  si- 
milar one.  Great  numbers  of  cattle  perished  during  the 
next  summer  for  want  of  grass. 

The  soil  of  this  country  varies  according  to  circumstan- 
ces. The  valleys  are  generally  fertile,  producing  large 
crops  of  wheat*  barley*  oats,  corn,  &c.  Forty  bushels  of 
wheat  to  the  acre,  is  but  an  ordinary  crop.  Various  kinds- 
of  grains  grow  spontaneously. 

South  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  in  the  vicinity  of  San 
Jose,  oats  grow  six  o-r  seven-  feet  in  height,  and  half  an  incb 
in  diameter, 

Last  year's  oats  stalks  made  good  walking  sticks  !  Good- 
crops  of  potatoes,  turnips,  radishes,  melons,  squashes,  cu- 
cumbers and  tomatoes,  are  raised  without  much  labor. 

The  mountains  are  thickly  covered  with  pine  and  cedar, 
(pinas  Colorado,  and  pinas  monophyllus  )  but  the  country  is 
too  rough  and  cold  for  agricultural  purposes. 

The  principal  animals  are  black  tailed  deer,  antelope, 
elk,  coati,  generally  called  "Kayotes."  and  last  though  not 
least  the  Grizzly  Bear.  The  principal  domestic  animals, 
are  Spanish  cattle  and  horses,  with  a  few  hogs  and  sheep. 

There  are  plenty  of  deer,  antelope  and  elk,  in  all  parts 
of  the  country — the  indolence  of  the  natives  preventing  them 
from  hunting  them,  and  the  rich,  pastures-  affording  food  to, 
Eiulutudes.of  thega. 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA.  41 

The  coati,  an  animal  belonging  to  the  wolf  family,  is 
found  in  great  numbers. 

The  grizzly  bear  is  found  in  or  near  me  mounlainous 
districts.  This  animal,  in  color,  somewhat  resembles  the 
buffalo,  the  extremities  are  short,  but  supplied  with  muscles 
of  immense  power.  The  feet  are  supplied  with  massive 
cla\vsr  designed  for  tearing  up  roots  rather  than  for  scratch- 
ing. The  average  weight  may  be  put  down  as  eight  hund- 
dred  pounds,  though  some  have  been  killed  weighing  over 
twu  thousand  ! 

They  are  very  tenacious  of  life,  and  cannot  be  entirely 
disabled  at  once,  unless  the  ball  penetrates  the  brain.  A 
dozen  balls  may  be  driven  through  the  most  important  or- 
gans of  the  body,  and  they  are  still  able  to  fight  three  ov 
four  men. 

They  are  not  disposed  to  begin  an  attack ;  but  when  a- 
roused,  or  wounded,  are  rather  ugly  game.  The  hunter, 
when  on  foot,  should  not  attack  them,  unless  there  be  a 
tree  near,  on  which  he  may  take  refuge.  The  flesh  of 
this  bear  is  superior  to  beef  or  buffalo. 

The  horses,  generally,  are  descendants  of  those  brought 
to  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards.  They  are  of  the  ordinary 
size,  active,  and  capable  of  enduring  a  great  deal  of  fatigue. 
Immense  numbers  were  at  the  different  "ranches,"  or 
farms,  prior  to  the  discovery  of  the  gold  mines,  and  wero 
then  worth  almost  nothing. 

Some  proprietors  owned  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  thou- 
sand.  If  a  horse  was  hired,  they  were  generally  satisfied, 
if  the  saddle  and  bridle  were  returned. 

The  Spanish  cattle  make  much  better  beef  than  ours, — • 
though  living  on  nothing  but  grass.  They  are,  generally, 
pretty  wild,  and  require  the  lasso  to  capture  them. 

Some  are  very  docile,  and  may  be  taught  to  be  of  essen- 
tial service  in  driving  cattle. 

Neal  has  an  ox  which  will  lead  a  beef  to  any  butcher's 
establishment,  however  distant;  keeping  it  in  the  road,  and 
standing  apparently  unconcerned,  while  it  is  knocked  down, 
and  bled.  He  is  then  sent  home  alone.,  When  his  servi- 
ces are  gain  required,  he  must  be  lassoed — to  avoid  which 
he  makes  every  effort  to  secretehim.self  among  the  bushes. 

There  are  plenty  of  wild  fowl,  such  as  wild  geese  and 
ducks,  quails,  sandhill  cranes,  &c. 

»* 


42  A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAIN'S. 

The  rivers  abound  in  fish,  of  ihe  salmon  family,  vary- 
ing from  two  to  four  feet  in  length.  The  markets  of  this 
country  are  well  supplied  with  nearly  every  variety  of 
jlcsli*  fish*  or  fowl, 

The  time  for  making  rapid  fortunes,  by  gold  mining,  has 
gone  by;  but  those  who  desire  a  pleasant  home  in  the  fur 
west,  will  be  as  well  satisfied  with  this  country,  as  any  o- 
ther  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 


CHAPTER  X11L 

The  "Diggcra"—  IZabits— Religion,    Ace.,— ftlcxicana-a 
ddngo-  Chief  Towns. 

The  Indians  of  California  belong  to  what  is  called  the 
Digger  tribe.  They  live  upon  roots,  grass,  bugs,  grasshop- 
pers, acorns  and  fish.  Acorns  are  gathered  in  great  quan- 
tities, pounded  into  a  kind  of  meal,  and  baked.  This,  with 
dried  fish,  constitutes  their  principal  food. 

They  go  entirely  naked — their  birth-day  suits  lasting  all 
their  lifetime.  Their  houses  are  liltle  better  than  large  o- 
vens,  built  in  the  following  manner  :  A  hole  is  dug  from 
twenty  to  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  and  about  four  feet 'deep — 
a  frame  work  placed  over  this,  and  the  whole  covered  with 
dirt.  An  opening  is  left  at  one  side,  to  crawl  in  and  out 
at.  They  are  almost  entirely  destitute  of  horses,  dogs,  or 
any  other  domestic  animal.  The  bow  and  spear  are  their 
only  weapons. 

A  predatory  warfare  is  carried  on  between  the  different 
tribes,  generally  between  the  "mountain"  and  "valley" 
tribes. 

As  they  are  not  blessed  with  much  property,  real  or  per* 
sonal,  squaws  are  about  the  only  spoils  of  victoiy. 

Numbers  of  these  are  carried  away,  as  captives,  when  a 
"ranchere"  or  Indian  village  is  taken. 

Their  religion  is  pagan,  worshiping  trees,  water,  earth, 
&c.  Their  fandangoes  are  religious  ceremonies.  Sever- 
al are  held  during  each  year,  and  are  considered  veiy  im- 
portant occasions.  .During  the  day  numbers  of  them,  col- 
lect at  some  particular  ranchere  to  make  preparations  for 
the  "scene"  at  night. 

Their  naked  bodies  are  painted  in  every  variety  of  style* 


AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

and  their  hair  tied  up,  and  covered  with  feathers,  pieces  of 
cloth,  beads  &c.  About  dark  a  small  fire  is  built  in  th^ 
centre  of  a  large  hut,  giving  just  enough  light  to  m;^ 
darkness  visible.  Around  this  fire,  fifty  or  sixty  collect, 
and  the  dance  or  tramp  begins,  keeping  time  with  their 
hands,  arms,  head  and  nearly  every  part  of  the  body. 

The  music  is  a  short  chant,  kept  up  by  the  dancers, 
though  the  greatest  noise  is  produced  by  the  tramp  of  thek 
bare  feet  on  the  soft  earth. 

They  have  a    musical  instrument,   which   is  simply  a 
tube,   having  a  couple  of  holes  in    it,  flute  like,  to  produc- 
ible modulations.     It  resembles  neither  a  bugle,  flute,  clar 
onet,  ffagelet,  or  any  thing  else,  except  another  one  of  ti 
same  kind. 

I  think  the  playing  of  this  instrument  is  almost  beyond 
the  "ken"  of  any  thing  connected  with  civilization. 

When  the  temperature  of  the  "oven77  is  at  about  150-'>. 
and  the  perspiration  running  in  streams  off  the  bodies  of 
the  actors,  the  whole  thing  resembles  more  the  midnight 
orgies  of  demons,  than  any  thing  human. 

When  an  individual  dies,  a  hole  is  dug   at  the  mouth  of 
his  hut,  the  body  put  in  and  covered,  after  which,  his  prep 
erty  is  laid  on  the  grave  and  burned. 

The  mourners  keep  up  a  dismal  howling  for  severs 
days.  This  is  the  general  custom,  though  some  trib'.-s 
burn  the  body  and  scatter  the  ashes  to  the  winds. 

They  are  passionately  fond  of  gambling,  and  never 
quit  the  game,  until  one  of  the  parties  is  dead  broke.  The 
game  is  played  in  the  following  manner. 

Two  having  seated  themselves  on  the  ground  opposite 
each  other,  the  one  takes  a  small  pebble,  and  passing  ft 
from  one  hand  to  the  other  requires  tho  other,  to  tell  in? 
which  hand  it  is. 

If  he  fails  to  tell,  one  is  counted  on  the  game,  if  other- 
wise the  other  takes  the  pebble.  Seven  constitutes  tho 
game.  They  are  fond  of  intoxicating  drinks,  are  great 
cowards,  and  generally  dishonest. 

Many  have  been  kept  at  the  catholic  missions  and  have  in 
this  way  acquired  some  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  language. 

The  Mexicans  are  indolent  and  superstitious.  They 
havo  two  or  three  phrases  which  are  almost  constantly  in 
uso. 


A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS, 


If  asked  to  do  any  thing,  they  no  quiere  (don't  care  or 
don't  Vant  to.) 

To  almost  every  q'lestion^even  the  most  simple,  you  get 
the  answer  quiere  sabe  (who .knows)  or  I  don't  know. 

The  following  auecdotu  will  illustrate  their  ignorance  or 
carelessness.  A  gentleman  seing  a  girl  carrying  a  child,. 
and  wishing  to  enter  into  conversation  asked  her  the  ques- 
tion :  Qiuerc  es  1e  padre  do  esta^  senoritta  (who  is  tjp. 
father  of  tins,  senoritta,  pointing  to  the  child)  quiere 
senor  (who  knows,  sir.) 

They  are  too  indolent  to  raise  much  gnun  or  vegitubles, 
ig  content  to  \\\  ,  onio.),  ^uvjic  and  pepper, 


reiur. 


iring  thoii 
!h  ll<e>n  ;  tying  th< 


over  cock  and  bull    fighting  cons 
y,     A  Fandango  comes  off  i  n  t h e  c 
ns  up  a  Mcxican.%  idea    of  life.     For 
r»t  be  beatdi  any  vv'r 


We  will  - 

Cation   and  com  me  r- 

cial  in. 

f  some    *>!  ihe  principal  cities   and  towns. 

SanFr. 
f         '  * 

y  of  the  same  name  a  few  miles 

J  rom  its  m 

many 

i    town  i:^  the  stale,   contains 
a    has  the  best 

harboi 

LI,  and   is  the  principal  port  on  that  part 

oi'the  coast. 

Sacra  me; 

,y  on  tti                                         TV-)  above 

San  franc 

in  the  sti> 

is  navfgabl 

i    the   g>" 

year.     In 

importance   it    a  In                  s  Surv 

Francisco. 

s  a  small 

men  to  Rive 

month   of                r    River.  — 

Marysviilo 

Rivers,  is 

growing  rrr 

la  a  very                   ?g  condition.  — 

Small  si  re  a 

?n   it  an*;                                  'luring 

the  greater 

f  the  yoar.                                          above 

the  latter  place. 

Nevada  city  is 

situated  on  Deer  creek  forty  miles  above- 

Marysville. 

AND  LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


Hangtown  b  &o$*  tk)  Amertean  River,  alo^  £fiy  miles 
above  SacramomG  city.  Three  >»efc  were  hung  here  in 
one  day  for  stealing,  and  from  ibis  the  pla^a  derives  its 
n*iuc.  Stockton  and  Booicia  a?e  sUuated  on  the  buy  of 
Sen  Francisco. 

They  are  places  of  considerable  importance.  There  arc 
a  few  towns  in  the  southern  mines  but  wo  aw  unacquainted 
with  thsir  situation,  and  importance. 


GUIDE  TO  CALIFORNIA, 


BY  THE 


TO  THE  EMIGRANT. 

YOU  are  about  to  undertake  a  long*  tedious,  and  somewhat 
dangerous  journey  ;  and  it  is  highly  necessary  that  you  should 
be  acquainted  wUh  the  mi&utios  of  the  route,  and  the  outfit  re- 
quired, ir.  order  to  take  you  safely  and  expeditiotialy  to  the  land 
of  year  destination.  Without  these  it  would  be  an  adventure 
uttesv&d  with  insuperable  difficulties. 

Kndeavor  to  make  an  early  start  —  do  not  wait  for  grass,  but 
carry  along  grain  sufficient  to  supply  your  stock  until  "grass 
comes."  Start  from  the  Missouri  river  as  early  as  the  first  of 
April,  assd  you  will  get  through  soon  enough,  be  detained  less  by 
fctreasfts,  ftind  have  better  grass  in  the  latter  part  of  the  route. 

in  reference  tc  the  starting  point,  St.  Joseph  is  probably  an 
good  ftoeny  you  may  select.  You  can  procure  nearly  every  ar- 
ticle B^cesaary  for  the  outfit;  the  road  is  good,  and  ihe  distance 
to  the  Plaits  river  less,  than  from  Weston,  Kansas  or  Indepen- 
dence. 

A  mesa  of  6  persons  should  provide  themselves  with  3  wagons, 
nnd  H  srmlea  or  horses.-  Mules  not  less  than  6  or  8  yeara  old 
are  preferable.  Two  of  said  wagons  should  be  light  1  horae 
o.'tes.  In  these  Joad  your  provisions,  clothing,  (just  enough  to 
tuke  you  through)  and  other  necessary  baggage.  The  other 
may  be  a  common  two  horse  wagon  —  on  which  load  forty  or  fif- 
ty bushel*  of  corn,  cats  or  barley.  If  you  can,  put  R  few  extra 
b'jabele  on  your  light  wagons.  Ses  that  these  are  welhmade  ; 
have  the  wheels  high,  and  the  beds  water  tight. 

Thus  equipped  you  need  not  wait  for  grass.  Be  sareful  that 
>ou  do  not  start  with  any  unnecessary  baggage  ;  if  you  do  you 
•vil!  throw  it  overboard  before  you  get  halflvay  through.  .  Tbe 
road  at  present  is  strewed  with  nearly  every  thing  from  *  •«-•«• 
€M£io£  io  a  child's  cradle,  that  h*8  thus  beeu  disposed  of. 


49  GUIDE  TO  CALIFORNIA, 

The  following  amount  of  provisions  will  be  sofficient  for  a 
mess  of  six  persons: 

Flour,  500  Ibe.        Pepper,  lib. 

Hard  Bread,  £50  do.         Sugar,  100  do. 

Bacon,  500  do.         Molasses,  10  gals. 

Corn  Meal,  60  do.         Dried  Fruit,  2  b. 

Coffee,  30  dt>.         Carbonate  Soda, 

Tea,  5  do.  (for  baking,)  2  Ibs. 

Chocolate,  10  do.         Pickles,  1  email  keg, 

Rice,  10  dTo. 

You  want  a  complete  camp  kettle,  coffee  pot,  frying  pan,  fin 
plates  and  cups,  knives,  forks  and  spoons.  The  frying  pan  will 
do  to  bake  flap  }<icks%  a  very  good  kind  of  bread;  not  very  digest- 
ible* but  probably  as  much  so  as  any  other  you  will  get  up. 

One  gun,  with  a  pound  or  two  of  powder,  will  be  sufficient  for 
each  mess.  You  need  not  be  afraid  of  Indians,  until  you  get  on 
the  latter  part  of  the  route. 

The  Pawnees,  Sioux,  Crows  and  Snakes,  will  most  probably 
treat  you  civilly  enough,  if  you  observe  the  Golden  Rule.  The 
"Diggers"  on  Hurnboldt  river  and  Upper  California,  mny  at* 
tempt  to  injure  you,  or  your  stock,  but  the  report  of  s  gun  will 
generally  sufficiently  frighten  them. 

You  should  provide  yourselves  with  gum  clastic  sacks,  to-  car- 
ry water  on  those  parts  of  the  route  where  it  is  scarce.  Every 
mess  should  have  a  saw,  auger,  and  a  few  nails. 

Be  careful  that  you  do  net  form  too  large  a  company,— thirty 
men  are  enough. 

Do  not  be  in  too  much  haste  in  electing  officers.  Travel  a 
few  days — become  thoronghly  acquainted  with  each  other;  then 
elect  a  captain  in  whom  you  nro  prepared  to  place  the  utmost 
confidence.  As  soon  as  each  mess  gets  ready  to  start,  cross  the 
river,  and  encamp  near  the  bluffs,  six  miles  from  St.  Joseph. 

While  here  examine  every  thing  connected  with  your  outfit. 
See  that  every  thing  is  in  order,  and  that  no  indispensable  article* 
has  been  forgotten. 

In  camping  arrange  the  wagons  in  the  form  of  a  circle.  Du- 
ring the  evening  the  stock  may  be  staked  outside,  end  not  bro't 
within  the  enclosure  until  the  night,  watch  is  placed. 

From  the  bluffs  take  the  right  hand  road. 

From  this  point  to  Big  Blue,  (road  good, 
and  a  sufficient  number  of  camping  places,)  120  miles. 

To  Platte  Valle/,  190 

Fort  Kearney,  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  10 — —320: 

fRoad  good,  wood  scarce.     Part  of  this 
Distance  >ou  travel  near  the  Little  Blue.) 

South  Platte  ford,  •  175 

(Road  level— buffalo  chips  for  fuel.) 


BY  THE  OVERLAND  ROUTE.  40 

Ash  Hollow  (good  encaroprnont.)  14  mile*. 

'Court  Howe  Rock,             68 

(Heavy  sand  road  in  many  places.) 

•Chimney  Rock,            ••••         .«f*  12 

Seott'aHBlufffe,        t.  5 

••Black  Smith  Shop,"         22 

(Water  scarce  in  this  distance,) 

Horse  Creek,            *. .  12 

Camping  place,         .-.  13 

"Roubidous,"             ....         ....  10 

Camping  place,         ••«•         ....  12 

Ft.  Lorimie  and  Larimie  River,     •  •  •  •  4— —  666 

Long  Hill  to  descend,       7 

(4  miles  from  the  fort  take  the  left  hand  road,) 

<4  We  rm  Springs/'             •••••       »»••  5 

Good  Camping  place,     17 

(Take  the  nght  hand  road  from  the  springs.) 

Creek  (good  camp,)         ••••          ••••  8 

(Kasiiy  forded.) 

Platte"  River,             •• 8 

Do.                     •« n 

La  Bonte  River  (20  ft.  wide— 2  ft.  deep,)  20 

fRoad  hiiiy  and  scarcely  any  water.) 

Branch  of  La  Bonte,             ••••          ••••  6 

A  La  Prela  River  (good  camp,)  15 

Fcurche  Boia  (40  ft.  wide— 2J  ft.  deepf)  8 

P)&tte  River,             •• 4 

Deer  Creek  (good  camp,)  5 

North  Platte  Ferry,             •  1— — ?7t> 

Camping  place.             ••••          ••••  12 

(Some  heavy  rood.) 

Upper  Ferry  of  North  Piatte,  16 

Small  Stream,             ••••          ••••  25 

(In  (his  distance  you  pass  a 

•number  of  lakes  nnd  springs  ;  but  the  fc'ater 

is  so  charged  with  alkaline  matter  as  to  be 

unfit  for  use.) 

Willow  Springs,             2J 

Prospect  Hill,             1 

Small  Creek,            8| 

Alkaline  Lakes,             ••••          ••••  6^ 

Sweet  Water  Rrver,            •  •  •  -         »* •  •  4| 

Independence  Rock,             •  •*  •          •  •  •  •  3jJ 

Sweet  Water  Ford,             ••••         ••••  1 

Devil's  Gate,            •  •  •  •         •  •  •  •  * 

Creek,            •  •  • .         •  •  •  •  £ 

Do*.           *,«••         ••••  £ 

El 


50  GUIDE  TO  CALIFORNIA, 

Miry  Do-            6  milef, 

Sweet  Water  River,           •  •  •  •         ...»  4 
(Take  right  hand  road.) 

Sweet  Water,           • 3 

Sage  Creek,           • .             %  3 

Good  Camp,                •  •  •  •                . . . .  3 

Creek,  "        •  •  •  •         •  •  •  •  2 

Road  leaves  the  River,                   • .  •  •  a 

Strikes  it  egain  (ford— 2  J  ft.  deep,)  6 

Ford  and  reford,            •  •  • .         • . .  •  j  j 

Ford  (some  heavy  road,)  8 

Ice  springs,             6 J 

Alkaline  Swamps, 

Ford,             10 

Branch  of  Sweet  water,  g 

Summit  of  hi!!,               ••••         . ...  ]|> 

Ford,             2 

Reford,            $ 

Creek  and  spring  (good  camp,)  3 

HUly  road  for,            ........  3 

Creek,             3 

2  Small  creeks  in  next,  2 

Strawberry  creek,             •  •  •  •         ....  2 

Quaking  Aspen  creek,  I 

Branch  of  Sweet  Water,  2i 
(May  16th.  i860  10  feet  snow.) 

Willow  Creek,             2| 

Sweet  Water  ford  43 

South  Pass,             jO 949 

Pacific  Springs,             ••••          ••••  3 

Do.  Creek, 1 

Dry  Sandy  (no  water  in  this  distance.)  10 
Junction  of  Oregon  and  Salt  Lake  roads, 

fRight  hand  road  to  Ft.  Hall.)  t> 

Little  Sandy,             ••••          ••••  6 

Big  Sandy,             ....         •  ••  •  5 

May  19,  1850— -40ft.  wide— L>£  ft.  deep.) 

Green  River,             ....         ••••  35 

(No  water  in  this  distance*) 
Ford  ihe  river  at  the  islands.     Strike  the 
upper  point  of  first  one,  then  lower  poinf  of 
second  one,  then  the  shore.     Bold  stream, 
generally  dangerous  to  cross. 

Muddy  creek,            2) 

Branch  of  Green  River,  4£ 
(Road  hilly  and  crooked.) 


BY  THE  OVERLAND  ROUTE. 


51 


Ford  of  this  branch,  6  miles, 

('May  21st,  1850—60  feet  wide— 3J  deep- 
current  rapid./ 

"Bluffs"  (good  camp,;  12 

Ham's  Fork  of  Green  River,  17 

(Rosd  hilly — water  plenty.; 
(May  22nd,  GO  feet  wide— 8  ft.  deep- 
current  rapid.; 

Grove  of  Timber,  ..* 12 

Small  stream,  • . . .         ...»  4 

Bear  River  valley,  ....         •••*  4 

(Small  stream  here  to  the  right  of  the  road.; 
Thomas'  Fork  of  Dear  (ford,;  12 

(If  you  cannot  cross  at  the  ordinary  ford,  go 
half  a  mile  higher  up.; 

Branch  (road  good  water  plenty,;  17 

(May  27ih,  40feel  wide— 7  ft.  deep.; 

Foot  of  Bluffs,  I 

Bear  River,  •  ••  •          •  ••  •  5 

Creek  2  ft.  deep  (road  good,;  6 

Camp  (water  plenty,  road  good;  15 

Beer  or  Soda  Springs,  15 

Steamboat  Springs,  ....          •«••  fa 

Road  leaves  the  River,  4>»      1151 

(Take  the  right  hand  road  to  Ft.  Mall.  The- 
left  is  "Hedgpeth's  Cut-off"  strikes  the  other 
road  about  70  miles  below  Ft.  Hall.) 

Small  Stream  and  Volcanic  Spring,  4 

(Good  Camping  place.; 

Creek  (Road  good,;  

Miry  Stream,  

Summit  of  Ridge,  •  •  •  •  5 

Ft.  Hall  (marshy  or  sandy   road,)  25— —1200 

Trading  Station  of  Hudson's  Bay  Co.  5 

Creek  60  ft.  wide,         ....  3 

Ford  of  Port  Neuf  (100  yds.  wide— 4  ft. 
deep,)  •  •••  ....  4 

Panack  River  (somewhat  miry,;  7 

Spring  to  the  right  of  the  road,  6 

American  Fall  on  Lewis  River,  4 

Good  camping  place  (2  or  3  ravines,;  10 

Small  Rocky  Stream,  1 

Fall  River  ford  (30  ft.  wide— 2  ft.  deep,)  6J 

Raft  River  ford  (good  camp,)  7| 

Reford,  ••••          ....  I 

(Oregon  road  between  these  fords,) 


52  GUIDE  TO  CAL1FORNFA, 

Third  Ford  of  Raft  River  (marshy  near  the 

river J  14  miles, 
Goose  creek,             •  •  •  •         •  •  •  •  9 

Ford  of  Do.  •  •  •  •         •  •  •  •  5 

(iood  camp,  •  •••         . ...  9 

Do.  (mountainous,)  •••»         ......  14* 

(Tuss  the  "Steeple  Rocks*'  in  thi?  distance. 

The  trail  from  Salt  Lake  cify  intersects  the 

road  about   1    mile  before   reaching  the  last 

mentioned  camp.) 

Creek  (several  Email  streams  in  this  distance,)       1G 

Follow  this  creek  (Road  goodj  21 

Small  stream,  ••••         ••••  12 

Follow  ir,  8 

Cross  the  bluffs  and  reach  a  creek  12 
Mot  Springs,             ••••         ••••  7 

Marshy  Road  for,  1 } 

Camp,  •.«.».•  ••••  5 

Summit  of  a  ridge,  •  •••.•-        •  •  •  •  2 

Tolerably  good  camping  place  (soU  alkaline,)  18 
Two  miry  stream?,  5 

Humboldt  or  Mary's  River  ford;  9 — —  14-J41 

,  Rfiry  branch.  •.».-•         »*•- •  3 

Branch,  • | 

Branch  100  ft.  wide— 3  ft.  deep,  20 
{Some  good  grass  in  this  distance.^ 

Right  hand  road  leaves  the  River,  28 

SmaH  creek,  ......        .......  10 

Crossing  of  Small  stream,  3 

•Spring  of  good  water,  I'l 

Road  strikes  the  river  (grass  poor,)  15 

Branch,  • 13 

Road  strikes  the  river  (grass  poor,)  W 
Alkaline  Stream  (grass  poor,)  'X 

Hand  strikes  the  river,         •  •  •  •         •  •  •••  10 

Leaver  if,  ...»         •  •  •  •  2 

Again  touches  the  river,  *» 

Miry  branch  4 good  road,)  18 
(Yoi-  will  find  a  belter  ford. one  mile  above 

the  ordinary  one.) 

Road  strikes  the  rsver,         •  •••  •          ••••  2' 

Road  leaves  the  river,  .....         ....  25» 

(Some  good  grass  in  this  distance. J 
Again  touches  the  river  (no  wood  water 

er  grass,)  T4 
Junction  of  the  Lawson  and  Truckic  route?,  •*> 

Camping  place  (by  the  latter  route,)  35 


BY  THE  OVERLAND  ROUTE.  53 

Slougliof  Humboldt  River,  15  miles, 

"Sink'*  of  do.              '20 

(The  best  water  is  in  a  slonpli  that  passes 
through  a  bond  and  nnrrow  b'ull'J 

From  the  Sink  lo  Hot  Spring*  (no grass  or 

water.;             20 

Truckle  River  (no  grat-s  or  waterf)  25 

Ford  (i;ood  camp,)              ....          . ...  5 

Bend  in  the  river  (good  camp,)  15 

Travel  up  the  riwr,             ....          •...  8 

Cross  a  hill  to  the  river,  12 
Pass  creek  Kanyon  (good  camps  every  few 

mile?,)            42 

Through  the  Kanyon,             ....          ....  5 

Red  Luke  (good  camp  near,)  1 1 

Lake  Valley  (good  camp,)  f» 

Over  the  ridge  to  Rock  Valley  (good  camp,)  lo 

Sick  Springs,             ....          ....  13 

Camp  Creek  (poor  camp,)  10 

Pleasant  valley.       Gold  mines,  2H 

Sutlers,             5f; 1(1,57 

(Lawson  Route.     Tho  road  on  this  route 
is  better,  grass  and  water  better,  and  not  much 
farther  than  the  other.) 

From  llumboldt  to  "Rabbit  VVrlls"  30 
(No  water,  but  good  grass  in  many  places-.) 

Hot  Springs  (no  wafer  or  grass,)  20 

Mud  Lake  (vcrv  little  water  nor  grass,)  20 

Summit,  of  a  bluff,              *•••          ••••  2 

Small  Lake,              3 

Through  it  Kanyon  (good  grass  and  water,)  20 

Summit  of'Sifjrra  Nevada,  45 
(Several  marshy  valleys  containing  lakes  in 
this  distance.) 

Cnmpt             U 

Vnlli'y  of  Pitt  Lnko,               4" 

Camp,             •  ••  •          .  t. .  1:1 

Pit*  River,              ....          ....  m 

Ford  of  Pitt,              ID 

Second  ford,             ....          ....  7 

Third,             •  • •_'.•> 

Lnst  Ford  (several  fords  iu  this  distance,)  <  !,"> 

Camp  on  the  river.              ••••          ....  'jti 

Do.     Do.     (road  mar?ljy,)  10 

Camp,             l'» 

Do. l<« 

Spring,             * 


*  GUIim  TO  CALIFORNIA, 

Small  Late  and  meadow,  s&  mi!e»» 

(Not  much,  water  in  this  distance,) 

Feather  River  ford'tmtf  meadow*,  81 

(Plenty  of  water.) 

Good  Camp,  .«.«,«         ««•»  fO 

"Little  Yaliey"  and  Deer  creefc,  14 

Camp,  •  •••  — ---  10 

J*Avvso!i*0  Rencho,  •  ••••  r...  35 

v  Very  little  w&ier  and  bad  road,)' 

Potter's  Rancho,  •  •  •  •  »  r.  .  35 

Neal'fl,  ...•«•  . ...  {$ 

Hamilton  City,  ^»*.  »...  18 

Yeats*-  Rancho,  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  8 

Yuba  City  and  Marysville,  12 

SacrAincnlo  City,  ••••          ....  60 

Sati  Francisco,  •  •  •  •          •  •  •  •  175 

Py  the  Lawgon  Route  to  Sacramento  c.ty,  2 1 4*> 


from  At.  Loui*  I o  California  via.  New  Mexico. 

To  Independence,            4nO 

I'rossinrr  of  Big  Arknr.sas,  350 

Ben»'s  Fon,           •• -JJ5 

Sante  Fe,            U7U 

Rio  Del  Norte  at  Sun  Phili|>i,  30 

Descending  Ri^la  Dunk  (Uio  Del  N?orte,)  210 

( 'r  ppcr  minc^,             •  •  •  •         •  •  •  •  75 

River  Gila,            ••••         ••••  *?(» 

PimoYillajre,             600 

Mout1^.  of  (Uta,            105 

( 'rossiii"  C«»lorado,             •  •  •  •          •  •  •  •  f 0 

D-.\     Coma  do,            100 

Firs't  Ranchero  in  California,  05 

Smi  I>ie«ri\             15 

$?a::  1  .'»'ii»  Rey»             46 

Vuoblo  <3e  los '  Angelos  1 00 

Sni'.ta  Barbara,             10» 

Montery,             ••••           ••••  310 

Rio  So!:na,             ••••         ••••  l-r> 

Rio  Sr»n  Joaquin,             •  •  •  •         •  •  •  •  W- 

Rio  Tuwalnne.             •  •  •  •         •  •  •  •  J- 

Rio  Strniflr.-w,             .»  l«» 

Sn"pr'?  F   rt,              1»0 


.   fcY  THE  OVERLAND  ROITK.  .V, 


Jr'ron:  Sun  Francisco  to  Panama,  3600 

Art-  **  th«  l*tllll)UiS  ••••          ••••  H7 

T»-.\«'w  Orleaud,  ......  **•  l«()0—  5SH7 

!•'••«!:  New  York  toSnn  Frnncisco  via 

(';,  ;  r  i  ii-ir,,  ••»•          .»••  17l.".':) 


THB   CND. 


CONTENTS. 


\ames  $  Residence,  of  each  Member,  <$'C. 

CHAP.  1.  —  A  "Returned  CaJifornian"  —  "making 
a  start  for  the  Diggins."  Big  Blue  —  Little 
Blue,  and  Platte  Valley. 

CHAT.  2.  —  FortKearney  —  "Dohy  Houses''9  —  Buf- 
falo, J>er,  fyc,  —  Ford  0?  Svut/t  Platte  —  L'/i- 
campmcnt  cf  Sioux  —  Fine  Arts  — 


CHAP.     3.  —  Indian  Mode  of  Traveling—  Court 
House    or    C/turc/i  —  Chbwy    Rock  —  &t-ott's 
Bluffs  —  Blacksmith  Shop  and  Horse  Creek.  1~ 

CHAP.  4.  —  Fort  Isirhnte  —  Warm  Springs  —  La 
Bonte  River  —  Magnesictn  Li-melons  —  An  for- 
///  start  —  Fishing  rn  Deer  crack  —  £«crr//  of 
iVor/A  Platte—  Mineral  Ij«kcs*  1  «' 

Cif  A  p.      Ty  .  —  Samv  subject  rnn  1  1  \iued.  —  /•  9ordi  ng  nc- 

cr*—  Ice.  spring*—  Ruin  and  hail  storm.  I  r 

t'ifAP.     6.  —  "South    Pass?'  —  Separation,  —  Grrm 
River—  Ham's  -  Km/.  —  A     Supper.  —  Snow 
Road  —  Soda    or  llfrr     Springs—  Stcauibtmt 


CH.A.P.     7.  —  Fort  Haft—  Port  Nntf  river—  Amer- 
ican l*alls—Raft  River  —  Full  River  —  Oregon 
Road  —Goose  Creek—  Castle  Rocks,—  Sail 
lake  Valley* 

8.  —  Rattle  Snake.  River  —  Hot  Spring*  — 
HumMdt  river  —  Sink  —  Lairson  Route  —  Rab- 
bit Wells—  Desert—Hot  Springs—  Mwl  Lcikt. 


59  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  9. — Sierra  Nevada-— Pitt  River — Indian 
Difficulties—an  Oregon  Company — Something 
to  eat — Murder  of  the  Canton  mess.  31 

CHAP.  W.— Getting  Short  again — A  party  of 
"Prospectors" — Feather  River  Meadows — 
Deer  creek — Lawsons.  35 

CHAP.  11. — Native  Gotd-~where  found — methods 

of  obtaining  it.  tt7 

CHAP.   12. — Climate  of  California, — Us   Cause, — 

Soil, —  Productions, — Animals,  <J'c,  tfi> 

CHAP.    13—  The  "Diggers" — Habits—  Religion, 

%c . , — Me x icans — a  Fa ndango—  Gh iff  Towns .         4%£ 


